When it comes to braising times, there’s a sweet spot

Beef short ribs sit high on my “favorites” list thanks to their sweet, beefy flavor and tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Last week, I braised beef short ribs for a get-together we call “The Five Chefs.” We’re not professional chefs; just five guys who love cooking. Our wives or partners enjoy the social aspect of the gathering.

At dinner, a guest asked where beef short ribs come from. Good question. A website stated: “The best, meatiest short ribs come from the top of the rib bones, near where ribeyes are cut.” That explains a lot.

Short ribs also come from the “chuck” area, which explains why short ribs require braising (slow cooking in liquid at low temperatures).

In a timely article by Laila Ibrahim, the Associate Culinary Editor at seriouseats.com, titled: “Why So Many Meat Cooking “Rules” Are Wrong — and What Actually Makes Steaks Juicy and Chicken Crisp,” addresses why braising meats for too long is not better.

I know that Ibrahim is correct because I braised a chuck roast once at 225 degrees for over five hours, believing it would be meltingly tender. No. It was stringy and chewy. Here’s why.

What makes chuck roasts and short ribs tenderize while they cook is their collagen slowly melting into gelatin. Once the braising time exceeds that point, the muscle fiber begins to break down and is unable to hold moisture. Result, as Ibrahim writes, what’s left is: “a fibrous, mealy texture.” Not good.

Since I don’t own a slow cooker, I use my oven to work its magic. I slow cook short ribs at 225 degrees. If you pull the pot out and uncover it, you’ll see my short ribs with what the French call “a smile,” a few bubbles rising to the surface as it v-e-r-y slowly and gently simmers.

For my beef braises, 3½ hours is the maximum time. Anything longer ruins the meat.

My short ribs were braised in a combination of organic beef broth and inexpensive red wine. And, as a recipe suggested, I used tomato paste for the first time.

During the braise, my kitchen filled with a beefy aroma, thanks in great part to the two garlic heads.

My guests loved the short ribs, many commenting on their tenderness.

The next day, Nan took the remaining braising liquid and short ribs, with the bones removed, and cut them into spoon-size pieces, added the vegetables, discarding the garlic, and turned it into a flavorful soup.

Take some weekend time and give these short ribs a try.

• Don Mauer welcomes questions, comments and recipe makeover requests. Write to him at 1leanwizard@gmail.com.

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Don’s Tasty Short Ribs

2 tablespoons olive oil

5 pounds bone-in beef short ribs, about 1½ inches thick

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 large garlic heads, halved crosswise

1 large yellow onion (about 6 ounces), ends trimmed, peeled, and chopped

4 medium ribs of celery (about 6 ounces), ends trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 medium carrots (about 6 ounces), peeled, ends trimmed, and cut into ¾-inch pieces

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups dry red wine

2 cups organic beef broth, plus more as needed

1 teaspoon dry thyme leaves

2 tablespoons cornstarch

½ cup parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

Place oven rack in lower-middle position and begin heating to 225°F.

Season short ribs on all sides with salt and pepper. Place a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the oil. Working in batches, sear short ribs on all sides until evenly browned, 10 to 12 minutes per batch; transferring browned short ribs to a large plate.

Carefully pour off all but 2 tablespoons of remaining fat. Reduce the heat to medium, add garlic, cut side down, and cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add onion, celery, and carrots and season with salt and pepper, tossing to coat and cook until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add tomato paste, stirring to coat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until tomato paste starts to caramelize, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Add red wine and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits from the pan’s bottom and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in beef broth along with thyme. Using tongs, return short ribs to the pot, along with any juices that have accumulated, nestling them so they are just submerged (adding more beef stock, as necessary, to cover). Bring to a low simmer, cover, and transfer to the oven.

Cook, undisturbed, until short ribs are tender, about 3½ hours. Cool and then refrigerate (I took mine outside) overnight.

The next day, using a spoon, remove the hardened fat. Place the pot over medium heat and, when warm, use a slotted spoon to transfer the ribs to a large plate. Using the slotted spoon, remove all the vegetables to a bowl, and set aside. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Whisk the cornstarch into ½ cup of water and then whisk it into the simmering broth. Return the short ribs to the pot and heat through for 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Scatter parsley over ribs and serve. Serves 6.

Nutrition values per serving: 443 calories (47% from fat), 23 g fat (8.5 g saturated fat), 13.2 g carbohydrates (11.2 net carbs), 4 g sugars, 2 g fiber, 32 g protein, 04 mg cholesterol, 773 mg sodium.

— Based on a recipe from Alison Roman, New York Times Cooking