Zucchini gets the spicy parm treatment in this skillet orzo

I love the bounty of produce that summer brings. There are berries of all types, juicy melons, revered tomatoes, sweet corn and prized peaches. I could eat a diet of just these items and be a very happy camper all season long. (I have been known to eat a large bowl of cubed watermelon as a no-cook meal.) But not all of summer’s offerings induce such cravings — just look at zucchini and other summer squash.

Let’s be real: zucchini is kind of bland. It lacks the umami of tomatoes, the in-your-face sweetness of melons and stone fruit, and the tartness of some of my favorite berries. But there can be beauty in its quietness.

The plentiful summer vegetable’s neutral flavor profile can serve as a blank canvas for other ingredients to crank up the volume. In this instance, I decided to give it the parm treatment — combining the squash with tomato sauce, orzo pasta and a combination of cheeses — to turn zucchini into the main attraction.

We primarily have Calabrian chiles to thank for this glow-up. As the name suggests, this category of peppers hails from the region of Calabria located in southwest Italy, the toe of the boot-shaped country. Different varieties range in shape, heat and flavor, but generally speaking, they are moderately spicy and fruity and have a touch of smoke. Calabrian chiles range from 25,000 to 40,000 on the Scoville scale, which is similar to the heat of a cayenne pepper, sitting at the sweet spot of announcing its presence while still having a kick that is manageable for most.

In the United States, the peppers are most commonly found jarred and packed in oil, either whole or already chopped. (I prefer the pre-chopped chiles for ease.) In this zucchini parm, one tablespoon is enough to infuse the entire dish with a pleasant slow burn. Add in canned crushed tomatoes, dried herbs, a handful of garlic cloves, orzo pasta, and a sprinkling of mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and you’ve got a winning one-pan recipe that you’ll want to return to again and again.

Most parm dishes can be heavy enough to make you crave a post-meal nap, but the zucchini here adds a lightness that is just what I want for a summer meal, while the dish is still filling thanks to the orzo. Plus, this recipe calls for 1½ pounds of zucchini, which makes it a great candidate for when you find yourself with a glut of it in your garden or week after week in your CSA box and you’re tired of baking zucchini bread.

Spicy zucchini parm is a new-to-me dish that I only wish had entered my cooking repertoire many years ago. It’s familiar yet novel, is a great vehicle for packing vegetables into a meal, requires only one skillet, and is something I’d be proud to serve to family and friends for summer entertaining.

•••

Spicy Zucchini Parm Skillet With Orzo

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

2 large zucchini (1½ pounds total), trimmed, quartered lengthwise and sliced ¼-inch thick

½ teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

8 ounces (1¼ cups) dried orzo pasta

6 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes, preferably no-salt-added

2 cups water

1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian chiles in oil, plus more as needed*

1 tablespoon homemade or store-bought Italian seasoning (see related recipe)

1½ cups (6 ounces) shredded, low-moisture mozzarella cheese (whole-milk or part-skim)

½ cup (1 ounce) freshly grated parmesan cheese

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F.

In a large (12-inch), deep, oven-safe nonstick, stainless steel or enameled cast-iron skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. (We don’t recommend using a nonstick skillet if you want to leave open the option to broil.) Add the zucchini, season with the salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally and adding more oil if the pan looks dry, until somewhat soft and lightly browned, 7 to 10 minutes.

Add the orzo and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, water, chiles and Italian seasoning, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan to make sure nothing sticks and burns, until the orzo is al dente and most of the liquid is absorbed, 10 to 13 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer.

Remove from the heat. Taste, and season with more salt, pepper and chiles, as desired. Sprinkle with the mozzarella and Parmesan, transfer to the oven and bake for about 5 minutes, or until the cheese is melted.

If you want to brown the top under the broiler, remove the skillet from the oven, carefully raise the rack to 5 or 6 inches from the broiling element, and preheat the broiler to HIGH. (Most nonstick skillets are not broiler-safe.) Return the skillet to the oven and broil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the cheese is browned in spots. (If your broiler is on the bottom, transfer the baking dish to the broiler drawer.) Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, and serve warm.

Makes 4 to 6 servings (about 9 cups).

*Where to buy: Calabrian chiles in oil can be found in the condiments section of well-stocked supermarkets, Italian specialty stores and online.

Substitutions: For zucchini, use other summer squash. For orzo, use other small pasta shapes. For garlic cloves, use 1 tablespoon garlic powder. For water, use chicken or vegetable broth or stock. For Calabrian chiles, use 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes. Want less spice? Reduce or omit the Calabrian chiles.

Nutrition per serving (1½ cups), based on 6: 365 calories, 44g carbohydrates, 23mg cholesterol, 15g fat, 6g fiber, 18g protein, 5g saturated fat, 564mg sodium, 9g sugar

— Aaron Hutcherson