Grill once, eat twice with this spicy marinated skirt steak

Microwaving the chicken-and-rice bake you made eight portions of for the second day in a row isn’t a bad move for dinner, but it isn’t necessarily great, either. I crave the convenience of that kind of cooking. I really do. But I need variety to stay invested. That’s why, for me, intentional leftovers beat batch cooking every time: You’re not eating the same thing twice — you’re using what you already made as a head start on something new.

A three-pound skirt steak takes no more effort to grill than 1½ pounds, and buying a larger cut is almost always more economical per ounce. That logic holds for any star protein: chicken thighs, pork shoulder, dried beans, etc. An already-cooked protein can be the key to any easy but delicious Night 2 meal. The pork shoulder you braised for tacos can easily take on the supporting role in a skillet mac and cheese. Barbecue chicken can transform into a chicken salad that’s equally good and different enough to feel fresh.

The key with this method is to cook with leftovers in mind from the start, making enough of your hero protein to have something worth working with and not an awkward amount of food.

To keep things interesting, I like the second meal to have a transformational aspect, whether that’s temperature, texture or format, so you’re not eating the same meal as the night before, just hiding behind a change in side dish. You can grill fish one night, then use it in a summery corn-and-fish chowder the next, or revive grilled sausages from Night 1 for a breakfast-for-dinner hash with potatoes, peppers and more vegetables on Night 2.

In this recipe pair, you start by grilling skirt steak. That steak is the star of Night 1, served alongside a smashed cucumber salad. It then plays a supporting role on Night 2, draped over saucy cold peanut noodles. Grilling happens only once, and the sambal oelek marinade that soaks into the steak as it rests finds its way into the peanut sauce the next night, giving both meals a common thread.

A few technique notes before you start. Dry brining the steak, even for just 30 minutes, improves the crust and seasoning, so don’t skip it if you can help it. The sambal marinade goes on after grilling, not before, so the sugars and citrus don’t burn onto the grates. Let the steak rest in the marinade, tented under foil for a full 10 minutes, giving it time to absorb (though plenty will be left over for serving).

Lastly, when you slice the steak, cut against the grain and hold back a full 1½ pounds for the noodles before anyone gets to the platter, so you can have enough for dinner the next night.

The same boring leftovers night after night? Not this summer. With the help of the grill and a little planning ahead, you’ll have two great meals to look forward to.

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Sambal-Marinated Skirt Steak

For the steak

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1½ teaspoons fine salt

3 pounds skirt steak, cut into 5-to-6-inch pieces

Neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable

Cooked rice, for serving

For the marinade

⅓ cup sambal oelek (see Where to buy)

¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)

6 garlic cloves, finely grated

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

⅔ cup neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable

For the cucumber salad

1 pound mini cucumbers

¼ teaspoon fine salt

2 tablespoons Chinkiang vinegar (Chinese black vinegar; see Where to buy and Substitutions)

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1½ tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

1 garlic clove, finely grated

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves (left whole, no stems)

Dry brine the steak: In a small bowl, combine the sugar and salt. Pat the steak dry with a clean towel and season all over with the sugar mixture. Set on a wire rack inside a large (rimmed) sheet pan and refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours.

Make the marinade: In a medium bowl, whisk together the sambal oelek, lime juice, garlic, sugar and sesame oil, then gradually stream in the neutral oil, whisking constantly until a homogenous mixture forms. (If the marinade has been made ahead, bring it back to room temperature before pouring over the steak.)

Cook the steak: Remove the steak from the refrigerator to come up to room temperature for 15 minutes.

Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to 450°F. If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or wood briquettes; when the briquettes are white-hot and covered with ash, push them to one side of the cooking area. For medium-high heat, you should be able to hold your hand about 4 inches above the coals for 4 to 5 seconds. Brush the grill grates with neutral oil.

Alternatively, to cook the steak on the stove, heat a large (12-inch) cast-iron skillet over high heat until almost smoking. (You may wish to open a window for better ventilation.)

Grill or sear the steak undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes, then flip and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, until the steak registers 125°F to 130°F on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare.

Transfer the steak to a large (rimmed) sheet pan or shallow dish. Using a fork, prick the steak all over and immediately pour the marinade over the steak, then tent with aluminum foil. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Make the cucumber salad: Place the cucumbers on a cutting board and use the flat side of a large knife or a rolling pin to smash each cucumber until it splits. Cut into roughly 1-inch pieces and transfer to a colander. Toss with the salt and let drain for 15 minutes, then pat dry with clean towels.

In a large bowl, whisk together the Chinkiang vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, sesame seeds and garlic. Add the drained cucumbers and toss to coat. Add the cilantro just before serving.

Slice half the steak against the grain into thin strips, reserving the remainder (about 1½ pounds) for the accompanying noodle recipe, if desired.

Arrange the sliced steak on a platter and spoon any remaining marinade from the pan over the top. Serve family-style with the cucumber salad and rice.

Servings: 4

Active time: 30 minutes; Total time: 1 hour

Make ahead: The spice-rubbed steak needs to dry brine in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours. The marinade can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 1 day in advance.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Where to buy: Sambal oelek and Chinkiang vinegar (Chinese black vinegar) can be found at Asian markets, well-stocked supermarkets and online.

Substitutions: For granulated sugar, use brown sugar. For skirt steak, use flank steak or New York strip steak, but it will take longer to cook. Sesame allergy? Use a neutral oil or peanut oil instead of the sesame oil, and skip the sesame seeds. Gluten-free? Use 4 teaspoons rice vinegar and 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar instead of Chinese black vinegar (which is usually fermented with grains), and gluten-free tamari instead of soy sauce. For cilantro, use parsley.

Nutritional facts per serving: Calories: 703, Fat: 60 g, Saturated Fat: 16 g, Carbohydrates: 12 g, Sodium: 1184 mg, Cholesterol: 121 mg, Protein: 32 g, Fiber: 1 g, Sugar: 8 g.

— Becca Jacobs

•••

Cold Peanut Noodles With Sambal-Marinated Skirt Steak

For the peanut sauce

⅔ cup smooth peanut butter

¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes), plus more as needed

¼ cup honey, plus more as needed

¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons sambal oelek (see Where to buy)

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Fine salt

For the noodles

Fine salt

8 ounces dried rice noodles (pad thai width)

½ head savoy cabbage (1 pound total), thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

2 to 4 Fresno or bird’s eye chiles, to taste, thinly sliced and seeds removed

1½ pounds leftover Sambal-Marinated Skirt Steak, thinly sliced against the grain

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

½ cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Make the sauce: In a large bowl, whisk together the peanut butter, lime juice, honey, rice vinegar, fish sauce, sambal oelek and sesame oil until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more lime juice, honey and salt as needed.

Make the noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook according to package directions, loosening the noodles occasionally with chopsticks or tongs, until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle. Add the noodles to the sauce in the bowl and toss until well coated. It will seem like too much sauce at first, but the noodles will absorb some of it. Add the sliced cabbage and chiles, and toss again.

Divide the noodles among bowls and arrange the sliced steak on top, followed by the cilantro and chopped peanuts.

Servings: 4-6 (makes about 7 cups of noodles)

Total: 20 mins

Make ahead: The peanut sauce can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 3 days in advance; whisk to recombine if it has separated.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Where to buy: Sambal oelek can be found at Asian markets, well-stocked supermarkets and online.

Substitutions: Don’t like heat? Reduce or omit the sambal oelek and chiles. For peanut butter, use tahini, or other nut or seed butter. For honey, use agave. Sesame allergy? Use a neutral oil or peanut oil instead of the sesame oil. For savoy cabbage, use green or napa cabbage. Instead of the Sambal-Marinated Skirt Steak, use any other cooked protein of your choice, including chicken, pork, shrimp or tofu. For cilantro, use parsley. For peanuts, use other nuts or seeds. For fish sauce, use soy sauce.

Nutritional facts per serving (about 1 cup noodles, plus steak), based on 6: Calories: 867, Fat: 57 g, Saturated Fat: 14 g, Carbohydrates: 61 g, Sodium: 967 mg, Cholesterol: 81 mg, Protein: 34 g, Fiber: 5 g, Sugar: 21 g.

— Becca Jacobs