Succotash with corn, peaches and andouille is an ode to summer

The not-so-secret secret to cooking delectable dishes is starting with the most flavorful ingredients you can find. This can mean either focusing on fresh seasonal produce or frozen food that was picked and processed when it was at its peak. When using such ingredients, even the simplest of preparations can yield sublime results. That’s the inspiration behind this vibrant summer succotash with andouille and peaches.

My introduction to succotash came via the “Looney Tunes” character Sylvester the Cat, and his “suffering succotash” catchphrase. But the dish goes back much further. Often described as a vegetable stew featuring corn and beans, succotash is a staple of the Native American diet, with some historians believing it was probably served at the inaugural Thanksgiving in 1621.

“The term first made its appearance in print in 1745, an Americanism formed from the [Narragansett] word misickquatash (and other Native American words, for example, sukquttahash and msakwitash), referring to various ingredients in a stew pot, and, more specifically in the [Narragansett], to an ear of corn,” John F. Mariani wrote in “The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink.”

The dish could also include any manner of meat, seafood, nuts, fruits and vegetables, based on what was available at the time. English explorer Jonathan Carver described succotash when writing about his travels through North America in the 1760s: “This is composed of their unripe corn as before described, and beans in the same state, boiled together with bears flesh, the fat of which moistens the pulse, and renders it beyond comparison delicious.”

Settlers adopted succotash as a staple of their own diets, canonizing it as part of the cuisine of what became the United States, and it went through many iterations over the centuries. More of a concept than an exact recipe, succotash is open to a cook’s interpretation, as long there are corn and beans involved.

I have limited experience preparing it myself, but given the creative license inherent in succotash, I knew it would be the perfect vehicle to highlight some of summer’s best produce — including fresh corn, tomatoes and peaches — with the convenience of frozen lima beans. And while I’m sure bear meat has its merits, I opted for andouille sausage to add protein, fat and flavor.

“The Original Fannie Farmer Cook Book,” published in 1896, included the following recipe: “Cut hot boiled corn from the cob, add equal quantity of hot boiled shelled beans; season with butter and salt; reheat before serving.” A recipe published a decade earlier in the Chicago Tribune called for canned corn and canned string beans cooked in a combination of milk and water.

The prominence of fresh corn in many modern versions ties the dish to the summer months in the present day, but succotash can be made all year round with dried produce. Some versions also include squash, completing the Three Sisters group of crops that Native Americans are famous for cultivating together.

In “Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking” by Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart, there are mushrooms and summer squash sautéed alongside butter beans, corn, onion, shallot, garlic and fresh herbs in the cook’s choice of fat (bacon or sausage drippings, or butter and oil). Other Southern iterations may include tomatoes or okra, or you can find the ingredients baked into a casserole.

My version, with sweet corn and creamy, earthy baby lima beans, comes together quickly in a skillet and includes andouille sausage and peaches. The spiced, smoky sausage infuses olive oil with its flavor to permeate throughout the dish, which is complemented by the peaches’ sweetness. There’s also juicy, savory tomatoes; oniony sweetness from sliced shallot; and a sprinkle of basil just before serving for a fresh herbal finish. This ode to summer is delicious and filling on its own, or pair it with a pot of steamed rice or a batch of fresh-out-of-the-oven cornbread to feed more guests.

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Summer Succotash With Andouille and Peaches

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces andouille sausage, diced

Kernels from 2 ears of corn (about 2 cups)

1 shallot, halved and thinly sliced

1 cup fresh or frozen baby lima beans

¼ teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

2 medium peaches, halved, pitted and chopped (about 2 cups)

1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes (10 ounces), halved

Fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced into ribbons (chiffonade), for serving

In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the sausage, corn, shallot, lima beans, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallot starts to soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the peaches and tomatoes, and cook, stirring constantly, until the peaches soften and the tomatoes begin to break down and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Taste, and season with more salt and pepper, as desired. Sprinkle with basil and serve hot.

Substitutions: For andouille, use other types of smoked sausage. For fresh corn, use canned or frozen corn. For shallot, use onion or scallions. For lima beans, use white beans. For peaches, use nectarines, apricots or plums. Vegetarian? Use a plant-based sausage, or skip the andouille.

4 servings

Nutritional information per serving (1½ cups) | 394 Calories: 39g Carbohydrates, 50mg Cholesterol, 19g Fat, 6g Fiber, 22g Protein, 5g Saturated Fat, 765mg Sodium, 10g Sugar

— Aaron Hutcherson