A creamy skillet chicken bridges the gap between winter and spring

This time of year, the kind of food I crave is as conflicted as the weather. The longer days and generally warmer temperatures make me want lighter meals that brim with bright crispness. But there is also a lingering chill in the air that insists I need something warm and comforting. Happily, there are meals like this one that straddle the shoulder season seamlessly, offering both springy freshness and a cozy, feel-good factor.

In this recipe, the latter comes from a creamy mushroom sauce that tastes comfortingly familiar — reminiscent of the kind made from a can of cream of mushroom soup you might have grown up with, but infinitely more delectable, without much more effort.

The sauce’s flavor starts with browning the chicken in the skillet. Once the chicken is transferred to a plate, the tasty bits left in the pan (sometimes referred to as “fond”) begin to dissolve when a mix of sliced mushrooms are added to sauté. Any combination of mushrooms works, but using a variety lends a lovely blend of earthy flavors and textures to the sauce. Shallots and garlic add more depth, and a sprinkle of tarragon brings a distinctive anise note and hints at the bright vegetables to come. Chicken broth and whole milk (rather than cream) are stirred in and simmered to create a sauce that is light yet lusciously thick and creamy. A touch of mustard heightens it further.

The chicken is nestled back into the pan to cook through, where the sauce envelopes it like a cashmere blanket. Then a burst of freshness is introduced in the form of a handful of sugar snap peas. They are cooked in the sauce until just crisp-tender and still bright green, bringing an unmistakable springlike vibrancy to the dish. Sprinkled with more fresh tarragon, it’s a sumptuous and healthful skillet dinner that satisfies the dueling cravings of the season.

• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian nutritionist and cookbook author who hosts public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good Food.” Learn more at elliekrieger.com.

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Skillet Chicken With Mushrooms, Snap Peas and Tarragon Sauce

4 small or 2 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1½ pounds total)

½ teaspoon fine salt, divided

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

8 ounces mixed fresh mushrooms, such as oyster, cremini, shiitake and white button, stemmed, as needed, and sliced

1 large shallot, thinly sliced into half-moons (scant 1 cup)

Water, as needed

2 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, divided

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed

1 cup whole milk

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 cup (3 ounces) fresh sugar snap peas

If you have 4 smaller chicken breasts, place them on a cutting board, cover them with parchment paper or plastic wrap, and use a mallet or rolling pin to pound them into an even ½-inch thickness. If you have 2 large chicken breasts, lay them flat on a cutting board and cut them in half across the equator so the meat opens like a book. Cut across to separate the halves to form 4 cutlets. Then cover with parchment or plastic wrap, and pound the thicker side of each piece to ½-inch thickness. Season the chicken with ¼ teaspoon each of the salt and pepper.

In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add 2 pieces of the chicken and cook until browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Repeat with another 1 tablespoon of the oil and the remaining chicken, transferring the chicken to the plate once browned.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet, then add the mushrooms and cook until they release their water and begin to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallot to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and the mushrooms brown further, about 3 minutes. (If the pan seems dry as you cook the shallots and mushrooms, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water.) Stir in the garlic and 2 tablespoons of the tarragon, and cook, stirring constantly, for another 30 seconds.

Sprinkle the flour over the mushroom mixture, and stir to incorporate it evenly. Add the broth and milk, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to bubble. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes.

Stir in the mustard and the remaining ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Return the chicken to the skillet, nestling it into the sauce, along with any accumulated juices. Stir in the snap peas, then cover and simmer until the internal temperature registers 165°F on an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of each chicken cutlet and the snap peas are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add more broth or water to the skillet to thin the sauce as needed. Taste the sauce and season with additional salt and pepper, if desired.

Sprinkle the chicken with the remaining 1 tablespoon of tarragon, and divide among individual plates or serve family-style.

Servings: 4

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Substitutions: For boneless, skinless chicken breasts, use boneless, skinless chicken thighs or boneless pork loin chops, with an adjustment to the cooking time. For shallot, use onion. Gluten-free? Substitute 2 teaspoons cornstarch for the flour. For chicken broth, use vegetable broth. For whole milk, use reduced-fat milk. For tarragon, use basil or chives. For Dijon mustard, use other mustard. For snap peas, use green beans or haricots verts, or snow peas.

Nutritional facts per serving (1 piece of chicken and scant ¾ cup vegetables and sauce): Calories: 417, Fat: 17 g, Saturated Fat: 4 g, Carbohydrates: 20 g, Sodium: 443 mg, Cholesterol: 130 mg, Protein: 45 g, Fiber: 3 g, Sugar: 8 g.

— Ellie Krieger