Spatchcock, dry brine deliver moist, memorable turkey
• This is a best of Lean and Lovin' It column, first published Nov. 14, 2018. Don Mauer is taking some time off.
This year, if you're going to buy what I call a “sale-turkey” (you know, the ones that range from $0.49 to $0.99 a pound) that includes a pop-up timer and has already been pumped-up with some salty liquid loosely defined as “brine,” this column is not for you.
If you've never roasted a whole turkey before, or if you’ve done an at-home wet brine in the past, have I got good news for you. Here's my story:
For years I've tried to find fresh (never-been-frozen) turkeys, raised without the use of antibiotics and fed standard turkey feed that did not contain any GMOs. The turkeys I found and roasted during those years delivered robust turkey flavor, but without a brine they did not produce moist and tender roast turkey meat.
Last year my turkey game changed — big time.
I wrote that, after mortgaging the ranch, we bought a 13-pound, uniquely special, limited-availability, truly free-range, authentic black-feathered heirloom turkey from Joyce Farms in North Carolina.
The turkey I served last year and a “sale-turkey” could not be less alike. When it came to roasting my heirloom turkey, I wanted to taste the turkey and not a flavored brine.
I turned to the very knowledgeable (I've never prepared anything from them that failed) folks at seriouseats.com for a preparation idea, and they presented me with two doozies: spatchcock (butterflying) my expensive turkey and using a simple, two-ingredient dry brine.
About dry-brining, J. Kenji López-Alt, Serious Eats' Chief Culinary Consultant writes: “Dry-brining your bird can mean the difference between dry turkey and supremely moist and plump turkey.” Why?
A dry brine makes it possible for a turkey to retain its natural moisture. A wet-brine, although a dandy method, because moisture (water) is added to the turkey, can dilute turkey's natural flavor.
Following López-Alt's directions, I removed my turkey's back and set it aside for turkey soup. Next, I opened the turkey up and pressed it as flat as I could.
Kosher salt and baking soda make up the two-ingredient dry brine. You may have just said: “What? Baking powder? Really?” You're as skeptical as I was when I read that.
Setting my skepticism aside, I went ahead and coated the exterior of my flattened turkey with the dry brine. I placed the bird on a wire rack and then sat the rack inside a half-sheet pan and, uncovered, into my refrigerator for 24 hours.
When my turkey exited the refrigerator on Thanksgiving Day, the skin looked somewhat shriveled and dry. If I had dry-brine doubts; they now doubled.
My spatchcocked bird cooked faster than any whole turkey I've roasted; 80 minutes in a 450°F oven and the breast was 150°F and the thigh 165°F. Amazing.
No Norman Rockwell moment here, though. After letting my turkey rest for 15 minutes as I made gravy, I sliced it all into serving pieces and left the legs to chomp on for those who love them and laid it all out on a warm platter.
This turkey, after all that, was nothing short of incredible. The flavor was worth the price I paid (I'm getting another one this year). The meat from the breast was moist, and the dark meat cooked just right. With the small number of leftovers, I made terrific sandwiches the next day. And, turkey soup after that.
If you try dry brining and spatchcock methods this year, please let me know how it turns out.
• Don Mauer welcomes questions, comments and recipe makeover requests. Write to him at 1leanwizard@gmail.com.
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Turkey Dry Brine
½ cup kosher salt (Diamond Crystal band works best)
2 tablespoons baking powder (not baking soda)
One 12- to-14-pound fresh turkey (that's not been brined and pumped up with any solution; also not a kosher turkey)
In a small mixing bowl, whisk salt and baking powder until well combined. Set aside.
How to spatchcock a turkey: On a cutting board, with the back side up, using a sharp knife or heavy-duty poultry shears, follow the spine and cut the back out. (Use it for making gravy or soup.)
Turn the turkey over and spread out until almost flat and then, pressing down on the breast, press down hard to flatten as much as possible. Tuck the wing tips under the breast.
Place a wire rack into a half sheet pan. Place the turkey open side up on the rack and, using your fingertips, drop the salt mixture over the turkey to coat (not encrust), Flip the turkey over to breast side up and continue coating with the salt mixture. You will probably not use all the salt mixture.
Do not cover. Place in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours.
On Thanksgiving Day, at least 3 to 4 hours before dinner, remove the turkey from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature. You will not need to rinse off the dry brine. You may season the turkey with any appropriate herb or spice. Do NOT use salt to season. I brushed-on extra-virgin olive oil before roasting; melted ghee works, too.
I suggest following Serious Eats’ roasting instructions: (seriouseats.com/butterfiled-roast-turkey-with-gravy-recipe).
— Adapted from seriouseats.com