This tender, buttery chicken channels the flavors of a dirty martini

We are halfway through January and many of us are still trying to undo the effects of the treats we indulged in during the holidays. For some of us this includes limiting cocktails. But don’t let that stop you from trying this Dirty Martini Chicken with its delicious flavor, tender meat and buttery olives.

I have never had a dirty martini (opting more frequently for the espresso, chocolate or French varieties), but I enjoy the individual components of a dirty martini — vodka, olives and their brine.

If vodka has little to no flavor, what does it do for food? According to Allrecipe.com, “While large amounts of alcohol tend to trap other volatile molecules in the food, small traces boost their volatility, and so intensify aroma. So, it's not that vodka adds flavor, it's that vodka unlocks flavor.”

Olives, and their brine, are a key component to a classic dirty martini. They are usually green and can be filled with a variety of things like pimento and blue cheese, but it is their brine that adds that signature dirty martini flavor.

Olives can differ substantially in flavor and texture, and I will admit to being a fan of them all. For this recipe, try to find the Castelvetrano variety; they are brighter in color than a typical green olive and have a buttery texture and flavor. A regular green olive will do, but Castelvetrano olives definitely enhance the taste of this recipe. I have found them to be available at my local grocery store, but if you can’t find them it is OK to use regular green olives.

While vermouth is not an ingredient in the typical dirty martini, it is part of many other vodka martinis. It is a neutral wine that has been seasoned by steeping herbs, flowers and other botanicals to enhance flavor. It is also sweetened and fortified with additional alcohol to increase the alcohol content to between 45% and 50%. The mixture is then filtered and clarified, resulting in a clear liquid. Since companies create their own blends, flavors can vary from brand to brand.

This recipe calls for bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs because they have great flavor and are very tender. I know some people don’t care for them because they can be fattier than a chicken breast, but that fat also makes them more forgiving if they are overcooked.

Bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts may be substituted for thighs, but be careful because they can dry out easily if not cooked carefully. Consider following these instructions: Place the breast on a cutting board with the long side facing you. Smooth skin evenly over the breast and carefully cut each breast into two similarly sized/weighted pieces, pressing firmly with the knife to cut through bone.

If you have time, consider brining breasts for 1 hour, remove from brine, pat with paper towels and then, if time allows, allowing to air dry, uncovered, on a plate or tray in the refrigerator an hour prior to cooking.

Basic brine recipe: Combine 4 cups cold water and salt; stir to dissolve salt. (All salt is not created equal, so measurements vary by brand — use 6 tablespoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, 5 tablespoons Morton kosher OR 3 tablespoons table salt.) Place chicken pieces in a large container or zip-top bag, fill with brine, seal and refrigerate up to 1 hour. Skip salting chicken as directed in the recipe if you opt to brine or the chicken may be too salty.

This recipe creates tender chicken with crispy skin due to the cooking method, so be sure to start with a cold pan and chicken skin side down. Whatever you do, don’t move the chicken during this part of the cooking, as you want the skin to brown and render much of its fat. Trust me, you will be rewarded for your patience.

I find it helps to use a meat thermometer when cooking chicken. I like the type with a probe that is inserted into the chicken and goes into the oven, monitoring the temperature as it bakes. You can find these types of thermometers in many different price ranges and styles, including cordless and varying temperature tolerances. I do double check different areas of the chicken with an instant-read thermometer to confirm doneness, but I find my in-oven thermometer has helped me properly cook all types of meats.

To quote my husband the first time I made this dish: “I would like to eat this again.” He is not a chicken fan, so this is high praise from him. I hope you think the same after you try it.

On another topic, I want to thank those who joined me for our Zoom charcuterie class last month. If you have an idea for a class, or are in search of a recipe you can’t find, please let me know. I think those of us who participated last month enjoyed ourselves; I know I did.

• Penny Kazmier, a wife and mother of four from South Barrington, won the 2011 Daily Herald Cook of the Week Challenge. Contact Penny at DhCulinaryAdventures@gmail.com.

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Dirty Martini Chicken

2 pounds chicken thighs, bone in and skin on*

1 teaspoon ground pepper

1 1/4 teaspoon Morton kosher salt (2 teaspoons if using Diamond Crystal brand)

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 medium shallots, thinly sliced

12 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 1/4 cup vermouth

1 cup low sodium chicken broth

1 cup (approximately 5 1/2 ounces) pitted Castelvetrano (or other green olives), cut in half

2/3 cup olive brine

2/3 cup vodka, divided

Zest of one lemon, finely grated

Fresh parsley, rough chopped, optional for garnish

Ovenproof high-sided (at least 3” ) skillet, short-sided pot or Dutch oven

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towels; trim fat and excess skin, leaving enough skin to cover flesh or top side of thigh; sprinkle all over with salt and pepper.

Place olive oil into cold skillet. Arrange chicken thighs, skin side down, in pan and set over medium heat on stove. Cook, undisturbed, rotating pan around on burner for even browning, until chicken is deep golden brown and releases easily from pan, approximately 14-17 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate, arranging skin side up.

Pour off all but 4 teaspoons oil from pan; discard. Return pan to medium heat and cook shallots, stirring often, until just tender, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle in flour and stir to coat; remove pan from heat and turn off burner. (Or make sure pan is far away from the burner. If the pan is close to the burner and it is on, there is a chance it may make the alcohol flame while you are pouring it into the pan; you do not want this to happen.)

Carefully pour in vermouth, chicken broth, olive brine and 1/3 cup of the vodka. Place pan over medium heat and bring liquid to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced by two thirds. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest and remaining 1/3 cup vodka. Taste sauce and season with more salt if needed.

Nestle chicken — skin side up — into the sauce. Scatter olives in pan, allowing most to fall into the sauce. Bake, uncovered, until chicken is cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, approximately 25-35 minutes.

Remove pan from oven and sprinkle with fresh parsley leaves.

Serves 4

*See column for chicken breast substitution ideas.

— Adapted from Bon Appetite Magazine