These savory pancakes can be made with just about any vegetable

Way back in March, one dreary, drizzly morning, I made buttermilk pancakes. A day or two prior, my partner, Joe, and I had been discussing the idea of establishing traditions for our little family. So I smiled and immediately agreed when Joe said, “What if when it rains, we have pancakes?”

That’s how our rainy-day pancake tradition began. It’s still going strong because I knew early on that we’d get tired of maple-syrup-soaked breakfast pancakes. If this was a tradition we’d keep, the pancakes would have to be savory sometimes, too. Served at breakfast, lunch or dinner, on days when the sky was gray and sidewalks wet, we’ve had kuku, latkes, okonomiyaki, crepes, socca, farinata, besan chilla, dan bing, scallion bing, blini, corn cakes, pikelets, Dutch babies, tortitas de papa, pupusas, arepas, tiganites and yachaejeon.

It was kuku, which I’ve been eating my whole life and making for the past 30 years, and the Korean vegetable pancakes known as yachaejeon that inspired this recipe for Any Vegetable Pancakes.

I tried this formula with dozens of vegetables, fresh and crisp or limp and wilted, cooked or raw, hardy or tender, leafy or rooty. Though adjustments are necessary depending on the moisture content and hardiness of the vegetables you choose, I found that almost any fresh or cooked vegetable can be enrobed in a simple egg batter, pan-fried into patties and served with your choice of condiments. (Aside from frozen peas, corn kernels, diced carrots and shelled edamame, I do not recommend using frozen vegetables in this recipe, as their moisture content can throw off the ratio of liquid to everything else.)

Unlike kuku or yachaejeon, this recipe incorporates crumbled tofu into the batter — because I wanted to be sure I was full after eating a plate of them. It crisps up along with the vegetables and, because tofu is so mild and takes on whatever flavors it’s paired with, it disappears into the pancakes; you’d never know it was there. If you want to skip it, that’s easy, too: Just add another cup of vegetables or a cup of cooked or canned chickpeas, drained and roughly chopped.

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Any Vegetable Pancakes

4 large eggs

3 scallions, thinly sliced (optional)

2 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated (optional)

2 1/2 cups vegetables, shredded, thinly sliced or finely chopped (see Notes)

7 ounces firm or extra-firm tofu, crumbled and patted dry (1 cup)

1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour or chickpea flour, plus more as needed

Neutral oil, such as vegetable or peanut

Ketchup, mustard, sriracha, soy sauce, oyster sauce, salsa, chili crisp, yogurt or any other condiment of your choice, for serving

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs until frothy. Stir in the scallions and garlic, if using, as well as the vegetables, tofu, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes, if using. Add the flour and stir to combine. If the mixture looks watery, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until a thin batter forms.

In a large (12-inch) cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, heat a thin layer of oil until shimmering. Using a large spoon or 1/4-cup measure, drop the batter into the hot oil, flattening if necessary, and leaving an inch or so of space so the pancakes can spread. Cook, adjusting the heat as necessary, until little bubbles form on the edges of each pancake and the bottom turns deep golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip, and continue cooking, adjusting the heat as necessary, until the pancakes are brown on the other side and cooked through, another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and repeat with the remaining batter, adding more oil as needed. Serve warm, with your choice of condiments on the side.

Makes 4 servings (10 to 12 pancakes).

Substitutions: Instead of tofu, add another 1 cup of vegetables or 1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, drained and roughly chopped. For scallions, use any other type of onion, thinly sliced.

Notes: You can use raw or cooked vegetables in these pancakes; frozen vegetables are not recommended, except for frozen peas, corn kernels, diced carrots and shelled edamame. If using cooked vegetables, they should be well-drained and chopped into similar-size pieces. If using raw vegetables, in general, the longer a vegetable would take to cook, the smaller you should cut it. Raw squash (winter and summer types both work well), sweet potatoes, carrots, and broccoli or cauliflower stems should be grated, for example, while onions, leafy greens, cabbage, green beans and peppers can be thinly sliced or diced. For the best result, leave out anything with a lot of sugar or high water content, such as most fruit, including tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers.

Nutrition per serving (3 pancakes, using broccoli, kale, sweet potato and chickpea flour): 262 calories, 12g carbohydrates, 186mg cholesterol, 17g fat, 4g fiber, 18g protein, 3g saturated fat, 400mg sodium, 2g sugar

— G. Daniela Galarza