Penette with Swiss-Chard Ragu

1-2 slices Italian or French bread

1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 small white onion, halved, peeled, and sliced 1/4-inch thick

3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

1 pound Swiss chard, rinsed, drained, and trimmed and sliced 1/4-inch thick

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into four pieces

Coarsely ground black pepper

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 pound pennette (small penne) pasta or other small pasta

¾

cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving

Tear the bread into chunks, and pulse in a food processor until coarse crumbs are formed. You want 1/2 cup. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a skillet, and, when hot, add the bread. Cook, stirring, until the crumbs are lightly browned. Transfer to a plate to cool.Combine the remaining 1/4 cup oil, onion, garlic and chard in a large pot, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion and chard begin to soften, about five minutes. Season well with sea salt, add 1/4 cup water, cover, and reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chard is tender, about 20 minutes. Add the butter, stirring until melted, then season with pepper and remove from the heat. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add the kosher salt. Drop in the pasta, and cook until just al dente (done, but still firm). Drain, reserving about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking water to the chard, and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated. If necessary, add a splash or two more of the reserved cooking water to loosen the sauce. Stir in the cheese.Transfer to a serving bowl, and scatter the toasted breadcrumbs over the top. Serve with additional grated cheese on the side.Serves six."Molto Gusto: Easy Italian Cooking at Home" by Mario Batali (2010 Ecco)