Spaghetti with Baked Cherry Tomatoes

3 pints cherry tomatoes, halved

½

cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

⅓

cup fine dry breadcrumbs

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the cook pot

¼

teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes

1 pound spaghetti

10 plump garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, shredded

½

cup freshly grated pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for passing

4 ounces ricotta or ricotta salata

Center a rack in the oven. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with baking parchment.

Toss the tomato halves in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, salt and pepper flakes, and toss to coat evenly. Spread the tomatoes in a single layer in the prepared pan. Bake until shriveled and lightly caramelized but not dried out, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, fill an 8-quart pot with salted water and heat to a rolling boil. When the tomatoes are nearly done, drop the spaghetti into the pot, stir and return the water to a boil. As soon as the pasta is cooking, pour the remaining oil into a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, and scatter in the sliced garlic. Cook for a minute or two, until sizzling and lightly colored, then ladle in about 2 cups of the pasta cooking water and bring to a vigorous boil, stirring up the garlic. Let half the water evaporate, then lower the heat, stir in the chopped parsley, and keep the sauce barely simmering.

As soon as the tomatoes are done, remove them from the oven.

When the spaghetti is cooked but still firm (al dente), use tongs to lift it from the water, drain it for a moment, and drop it into the skillet, still over low heat. Toss the spaghetti quickly with the garlic and parsley sauce in the pan, then slide the baked tomatoes on top. Scatter the basil shreds over all, and toss everything together until the spaghetti is evenly dressed. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss once more.

Mound the spaghetti in a warmed serving bowl. Dollop the ricotta all over the top (or, if using ricotta salata, shred it), and serve immediately, with extra grated cheese on the side.

Serve six.

Cook's note: In addition to spaghetti, you can use gemelli or penne.

"Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy" by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich (2009 Knopf)