Mighty Fine Texas Chili

2 tablespoons olive oil

1¼ pounds lean coarsely ground beef

1 cup chopped onion (1 medium-size onion)

4 medium-size cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 quart (4 cups) beef broth

1 can (14½ ounces) diced tomatoes, undrained

1 can (10 ounces) diced tomatoes with green chiles

About 3 cans (about 15 ounces each) pinto beans (optional; see note) rinsed and drained

Garnishes

Chopped red onion

Sour cream

Cilantro sprigs

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

Place the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium-high heat. Crumble in the ground beef, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Cook, stirring, until the beef browns all over and is nearly cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, 2 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the chili powder, flour, cumin and oregano. Slowly add the beef broth, stirring until it is incorporated. Stir in the diced tomatoes and the tomatoes with chiles.

Cover the pot and carefully transfer it to the oven on the center rack. Bake the chili until it thickens nicely and has cooked down, about 2 hours.

Transfer the pot to the stove and carefully remove the lid, watching out for the escaping steam. Stir in as many cans of pinto beans as desired, then replace the lid. Cook the chili over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the beans heat through. Serve the chili garnished with red onion, sour cream, and cilantro sprigs.

Serves eight to 10.

Cook's notes: One can of pinto beans will give the chili a hint of beans. Two cans are for those who like beans in their chili. And three cans of pinto beans are for those who must have chili with beans.

You can make a double batch of the chili in a very large pot. Cooked on top of the stove, it will take 3 to 4 hours; stir the chili occasionally.

If you are going to be out of the house for longer than two hours, this chili will cook down and taste delicious when baked for about 3 hours at 250 degrees. And, if you're pressed for time, you can cook the chili at a simmer on top of the stove, but be careful to stir it often. Cooked that way, the chili should he ready in 1½ hours.

Test kitchen note: This chili is a little soupier than most chilis, so if you prefer a heartier version, go easy on the broth and add a touch more flour.

"What Can I Bring? Cookbook" by Anne Byrn (2007 Workman Publishing $14.95)