Crushed Midway Olive Salad

6 ounces drained pitted ripe green olives (see note)

1 large head garlic, boiled for 5 minutes in water, then drained, peeled and crushed

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

½ teaspoon cumin seed, preferably Moroccan

Rind of ¼ preserved lemon, pulp removed, rind rinsed and dried, then cut into very thin strips (julienne)

½ tablespoon bitter-orange marmalade

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Spread a few layers of paper towels on a work surface and have another few sheets at hand.

Rinse the olives, then spread them on the paper towels. Cover with paper towels and press gently to crush them.

Combine the garlic, salt, cilantro, cumin seed, preserved lemon rind and orange marmalade in the bowl of a large mortar and pestle. Grind to a paste, then slowly add the oil, working it in. Add the paprika, ground coriander, cayenne pepper and the crushed olives; stir gently to incorporate. Transfer to a container with a tightfitting lid. Refrigerate for at least 3 days before serving; taste, and add salt as needed.

Serve at room temperature.

Makes a generous 1 cup; four side-dish servings.

Cook's notes: This can be prepared in a mini food processor; use short pulses. Look for pitted ripe green olives at the olive bar at specialty grocery stores. Among domestic jarred/canned brands, author Paula Wolfert prefers Lindsay's Select Medium Home-Style Cured Pitted Green Olives or Graber's pitted ripe olives.

Nutrition values per serving: 130 calories, 12 g fat (1 g saturated), 7 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 0 protein, 0 cholesterol, 690 mg sodium.

Adapted from Paula Wolfert's “The Food of Morocco” (Ecco, 2011)