How to make big, juicy turkey burgers that are anything but boring

When I tell my guests I am making turkey burgers for dinner, I feel like I have to immediately reassure them: “Don’t worry, these are really good ones.” I need the qualifier because I can almost see the dread in their eyes as they recall their dry, bland patty experiences.

Yes, it’s all too easy to make a disappointing turkey burger, but it’s not hard to make a delicious one if you keep a few key strategies in mind.

1. Make sure your turkey mixture has some fat in it, because fat is what keeps the burger moist and juicy. Ground poultry that’s 92% to 94% lean has enough fat to do the trick while still qualifying as a healthful, lean meat. If you can only find 99% lean ground poultry, mix in 1 tablespoon of olive oil per pound to add more fat in a healthy way.

2. Don’t overcook it. Poultry needs to be cooked to 165°F, but any more than that with ground poultry and you are in hockey puck territory. Use a meat thermometer to ensure you reach, but don’t exceed, the right temperature.

3. Season it. Turkey has such a mild flavor it practically begs for seasonings, and there are many ways to go besides salt and pepper. Play around with chili powder, garlic and herbs, and consider adding umami to the mix with grated Parmesan or Worcestershire or soy sauce.

These turkey burgers employ these strategies and then some. Rather than have their seasonings mixed into the meat, they are stuffed with a savory layer of sautéed spinach, scallion, dill and feta cheese. The stuffing makes the burgers compellingly big and juicy, and it creates a delightful flavor reveal when you bite into it. A drizzle of a tzatziki-inspired lemon, dill and yogurt sauce and a few crisp slices of cucumber on top give the burger a Greek vibe, and add extra layers of luxe flavor and texture. Served piled on buns or lettuce leaves, it is a turkey burger that may just change your mind about turkey burgers.

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Spinach and Feta Turkey Burgers

½ cup plain Greek yogurt (whole or reduced-fat)

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil, divided, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill fronds

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (from the same lemon)

1 garlic clove, finely grated

¼ teaspoon fine salt, divided

¼ teaspoon plus a pinch freshly ground black pepper, divided

6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, dark greens separated

2 cups (2 ounces) lightly packed baby spinach leaves, coarsely chopped

¼ cup (1¼ ounces) crumbled feta cheese

1½ pounds ground turkey, preferably 92% to 94% lean

4 whole-wheat burger buns or 4 large leaves romaine lettuce

1 mini cucumber (3 to 4 ounces), trimmed and thinly sliced

4 small leaves romaine lettuce

In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, 2 teaspoons of the oil, 2 teaspoons of the dill, the lemon zest and juice, garlic, ⅛ teaspoon of the salt, and the pinch of pepper. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the dark scallion greens. (Reserve the rest for another use.) Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

In a medium (10-inch) skillet over medium heat, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Add the scallion light greens and whites, and cook, stirring frequently, until they soften, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring once or twice, until it wilts, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, then add the feta and the remaining 1 tablespoon of dill and ⅛ teaspoon of the pepper, and stir to combine.

Divide the turkey into 4 equal portions. Make 2 equal patties out of each portion so you have 8 patties total, each about 4½ inches in diameter and weighing about 3 ounces. Divide the spinach-feta mixture onto half of the patties. Top with remaining patties, using your fingers to seal the turkey around the edges. Season the burgers on both sides with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

Brush a grill pan with oil and heat it over medium heat, or prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, set it to 450°F. If using a charcoal grill, fill a chimney starter with charcoal, light it, and when the coals are white-gray with ash, pour them onto the charcoal grate, adding more charcoal, if necessary. Put the lid on the grill, making sure the vents are fully open. When all of the coals are gray and hot, about 15 minutes, your grill should be at medium-high heat. (Use a grill thermometer, or test the heat by holding your hand, palm down, about 4 inches from the grate, making sure that nothing flammable, such as clothing, is near the heat. If you can hold it there for about 4 seconds, the heat should be at medium, or about 450°F. Pull your hand away from the heat before it gets painful.) Make sure the cooking grates are clean, then use tongs to dip a folded paper towel in oil and lightly apply a thin layer all over the grill grates.

Place the patties onto the grill pan or grill, and cook until an instant-read thermometer registers 165°F when inserted in the center of the meat, away from the filling, about 8 minutes per side.

To serve, place a burger on the bottom half of a bun, top with about 2 tablespoons of yogurt sauce, then several slices of cucumber and a small lettuce leaf. Top with the other half of the bun and serve. Alternatively, serve the burgers, topped with sauce and cucumber, on large lettuce leaves.

Substitutions: For ground turkey, use other ground meat or plant-based alternative. For baby spinach, use regular spinach. For romaine lettuce, use other crunchy lettuce. For mini cucumber, use other cucumber.

Servings: 4 (makes 4 burgers)

Total: 1 hour, 5 minutes

Make ahead: The sauce can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 3 days in advance.

Storage: Refrigerate the cooked burgers for up to 4 days. Reheat in the microwave or wrapped in foil in a 350°F oven.

Nutritional facts per burger, on whole-wheat buns, using reduced-fat yogurt and 93% lean turkey: Calories: 467, Fat: 24 g, Saturated Fat: 6 g, Carbohydrates: 20 g, Sodium: 549 mg, Cholesterol: 136 mg, Protein: 43 g, Fiber: 3 g, Sugar: 5 g.

— Ellie Krieger