The best ways to cook with spring produce, including asparagus, peas and herbs

If there’s one color that embodies spring and all that comes with it, that color is green. (Though yellow, with the blizzard of pollen coating every surface outside, is a close second.) That’s especially the case with the bevy of seasonal produce that starts cropping up at farmers markets and in backyard gardens. The verdant burst is always welcome after a dreary winter, and the bright, fresh flavors of spring vegetables are like a breath of fresh air on the table, too.

Here’s a guide to how to cook with some of these star ingredients so you can appreciate the best of what the season has to offer.

1. Asparagus

There’s no vegetable I associate with spring more than asparagus. Emerging from the ground like blades of new grass, these snappy spears are a harbinger of the season. I especially treasure the thin spears you’ll more readily find at the farmers market, as they’re delicate and sweet enough to eat straight out of hand.

Regardless of how big the spears are, the most important thing to keep in mind is that overcooking is about the worst thing you can do to asparagus. Doing so will leave you with an insipid, mushy texture and possibly bitter flavor. For the best results, stick with high-heat, quick cooking methods that take the edge off but still maintain the snap and freshness of the vegetable.

I’m most inclined to a brief roast or broil, though grilling is an excellent option as well. You can also harness the power of water with blanching or steaming, which are effective techniques for keeping the bright green color. The types of dishes you can use asparagus in are just as varied as the cooking methods. Try it in a salad, savory tart, sheet pan supper or stir-fry.

Storage tip: If you’re not using it right away, stand asparagus up in water in your fridge, such as in a quart-size deli container or jar, and cover loosely with a plastic bag, changing out the water every day or so if it gets cloudy. This should help keep the spears close to peak freshness for roughly 5 days.

2. Green beans

As with asparagus, green beans shine most brightly when not cooked to a pulp. That’s especially important if you or the people you’re cooking for have been scarred by mushy canned and frozen specimens. If you’re looking for something with more delicate flavor and texture to win over skeptics, seek out haricots verts, the longer, thinner French green beans that can also taste slightly sweeter.

I find green beans most appealing when they retain their bright color and snappy texture. Leaving them raw is an easy way to do that, which you can accomplish by cutting the beans at an angle (or “on the bias”). This lets the dressing penetrate the vegetables and makes for easier chewing. Quickly steaming or blanching can keep them closer to their fresh state. Using high heat to briefly brown or blister the exterior of the beans, whether through stir-frying, roasting or searing, brings enticing color and flavor to the exterior without overcooking the interior.

That being said, there’s nothing wrong with cooking green beans until they’re tender or luxuriously silken, if done right.

Storage tip: Advice on how to store fresh green beans varies, but most sources agree that too much moisture can hasten their demise. Try stashing the beans in a vented bag or container in the crisper drawer.

3. Peas

English peas are diminutive and low-maintenance cooking-wise because they’re best appreciated raw or very briefly cooked. If you’re lucky enough to get fresh peas in their pods, you’ll be rewarded for your trouble with sweet, tender orbs that can brighten any number of dishes. (If you’re not, frozen peas make a fine substitute.)

Freshly shucked peas are a natural addition to salads, as in Fresh Pea Salad With Red Onion and Pecorino Romano, or you can just heat them through. Because they’re so tender and malleable, peas work as a spread for toast, basis for soup or creamy puree to serve as a bed for seared meat. They also pair well with pasta, either as a sauce or add-in, with such options as spaghetti, couscous, pastina and orzo. For something special but approachable, make your own little dumplings for Ricotta Gnocchi With Leeks and Peas, which spotlights the mellow peas against a backdrop of sweet leeks, sharp garlic and savory parmesan cheese.

Storage tip: Store fresh pods in a bag in the crisper drawer and use as soon as possible, as the sugars quickly convert to starches. Shell, blanch and freeze any extras.

4. Herbs

Spring is when many of us start planting or tending to our backyard herbs, and they deserve every ounce of attention we can give them. Most often viewed as a garnish, herbs are special enough to take top billing in all sorts of dishes. Skip the lettuce altogether and use tender-leaf herbs — parsley, dill, mint, basil and cilantro — as the star attraction in a vibrant salad.

Of course, once your herbs start thriving (or once you buy a big bunch at the store), there’s the question of what exactly to do with all of them. The simplest answer is sauce. Options from around the world include pesto, chimichurri, chutney and even ranch dressing. Tuck fistfuls of herbs into a rice pilaf, blend into goat cheese or stir into soup. There are few dishes that don’t benefit from a hit of fresh herbs, even baked goods.

Storage tip: Spread the herbs across a barely damp towel (paper or cloth), roll into a bundle, place the bundle in a bag (plastic or silicone) and store it in the refrigerator.

Salad greens

After the heavier fare of winter, many of us crave nothing more than a fresh spring salad once the weather warms up. But if you typically stick to the standard iceberg or romaine, there’s a world of colorful, nutritious and flavorful greens to explore.

Tender butterhead and oak leaf lettuces are great entry-level options beyond the more common varieties. For more textured and boldly flavored possibilities, move up to radicchio, Belgian endive and escarole, which can easily be blended with mellower types to cut their assertiveness.

Heartier greens, including kale, arugula, spinach and dandelion greens, offer much in the way of nutrition and flavor, though they can be more divisive with their bitter edge. Baby varieties of kale, arugula and spinach are a nice middle ground. When dressing salad, I’m of the “less is more” persuasion, from both a quantity (you can always add more, not less) and complexity (it’s OK to just use lemon juice and olive oil) perspective. Kale benefits from being rubbed with dressing and left to rest so the leaves tenderize.

Storage tip: Keep in the refrigerator’s crisper drawer, with heads of lettuce in a plastic or reusable produce bag, and leaves loosely packed in a hard-sided container, layered with layers of dry paper towels or dish towels for longer storage. (Swap out the towels if they get particularly damp.)

•••

Asparagus and White Bean Salad With Bacon Vinaigrette

4 slices bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces

Fine salt

1½ pounds asparagus (2 bunches), woody ends trimmed, cut into bite-size pieces

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added white beans, such as cannellini or great northern, drained and rinsed

1 cup homemade or store-bought croutons

1 ounce Manchego cheese, crumbled or diced (¼ cup)

To a cold medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until the fat is rendered and the bacon browns and crisps, about 10 minutes. While the bacon is cooking, line a large plate with paper towels and set it near your workspace. Carefully transfer the bacon to the prepared plate. Pour the rendered fat through a fine mesh strainer into a heatproof measuring cup or bowl. You should get about ¼ cup.

Fill a medium bowl with ice water and set aside. Bring a medium or large pot of water to a boil and lightly salt it. Add the asparagus and blanch until bright green and crisp-tender — cooked through but still with a snap — 2 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, transfer to the ice water and let cool completely, stirring occasionally. Drain the asparagus and pat dry.

In a large bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and black pepper until combined. While whisking, slowly stream in the rendered bacon fat until fully emulsified to form a vinaigrette. Add the asparagus, white beans and croutons and gently toss until evenly combined. Taste, and season with salt or pepper, as desired. Transfer to a serving bowl, if desired, and top with the cooked bacon and cheese.

4 to 6 servings (makes about 7 cups)

Total time: 25 mins

Make ahead: The asparagus can be blanched and refrigerated up to 2 days in advance.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Substitutions: For white wine vinegar, use another type of vinegar or lemon juice. For white beans, use chickpeas. For Manchego, use a sharp aged cheddar, pecorino or Parmesan.

Variations: If your asparagus is very fresh and you enjoy the taste, you can skip the blanching step and use it raw.

Nutrition per serving (1 heaping cup), based on 6: 208 calories, 15 g carbohydrates, 19 mg cholesterol, 12 g fat, 4 g fiber, 8 g protein, 5 g saturated fat, 400 mg sodium, 2 g sugar

— Aaron Hutcherson, The Washington Post, 2024

•••

Fresh Pea Salad With Red Onion and Pecorino Romano

2 cups (10 ounces) shucked fresh English peas (from about 2 pounds unshucked)*

¼ cup very thinly sliced red onion

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon fine salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (¾ ounce) thinly shaved pieces Pecorino Romano cheese (may also use Parmesan cheese)

Rinse the peas and pat them dry. Place them in a large bowl with the onion, parsley, dill, oil, lemon zest and juice, salt and pepper. Toss to combine and let sit so the flavors meld, about 15 minutes. When ready to serve, gently toss in the cheese to combine.

4 servings

Total time: 25 mins, including time to shuck the peas

Note: If using frozen peas, cook according to package directions until they are firm-tender, then cool in an ice bath. Drain and pat dry thoroughly, then proceed with the recipe.

Make ahead: The salad can be assembled up to the point of adding cheese and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Let the salad come to room temperature before serving.

Substitutions: For fresh peas, use frozen, defrosted peas. For fresh dill or parsley, use any tender herb such as basil or mint. For Pecorino Romano, or use Parmesan or aged Manchego.

Nutrition per serving (heaping ½ cup): 144 Calories, 12 g Carbohydrates, 5 mg Cholesterol, 9 g Fat, 4 g Fiber, 6 g Protein, 2g Saturated Fat, 220 mg Sodium, 4 g Sugar

— Ellie Krieger

•••

Ricotta Gnocchi With Leeks and Peas

FOR THE GNOCCHI

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

One (15-ounce) container whole milk ricotta

Generous ⅓ cup (about 1 ounce) finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

1 large egg

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1¼ cups (about 5½ ounces) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

FOR THE LEEK-PEA SAUCE

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 leek (about 11 ounces), white and light green parts only, washed well and thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

Ground black pepper

One (10-ounce) package frozen peas, defrosted (or 1½ cups fresh)

1 cup unsalted or low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

Make the gnocchi: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, stir together the salt, ricotta, Parmesan, egg and lemon zest until evenly combined. Add about ⅓ of the flour and mix in, then repeat to add the rest in two more additions, forming the gnocchi dough. Refrigerate the dough, uncovered, for about 15 minutes. (Now would be a great time to prep the ingredients for the sauce.)

Lightly dust the counter with flour and turn out the dough. Dust the dough and your hands with flour. Divide the dough into eight even pieces and roll each into a log roughly ¾-inch in diameter, adding more flour as needed to help keep it from sticking. (The dough can handle a decent amount of flour, so use as much as you need — within reason, of course. It'll turn out just fine in the end.) Cut each log into approximately 1-inch-long gnocchi, transfer to the prepared baking sheet and dust lightly with flour to keep from sticking. (A bench scraper is great for cutting and transferring the gnocchi.) It’s OK if the gnocchi look a little misshapen — it adds rustic charm — but you can lightly flour your hands and reshape any that aren't to your liking.

Make the leek-pea sauce: In a large, nonstick skillet, at least 12 inches wide, over medium heat, heat the oil and melt the butter until foaming. Add the leek, garlic and red pepper flakes, season lightly with salt and pepper and cook, stirring regularly, until the leek has softened, about 10 minutes.

Add the peas, broth and lemon juice and cook until the peas are tender and the liquid has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes.

Gently slide the gnocchi into the pot of boiling water, giving them a gentle stir to make sure they don't stick together. Once they float to the top, let simmer until cooked all the way through, about 2 minutes. (Taste one to check doneness: If it's dense and pasty in the middle, it's not ready yet — it should be soft and smooth throughout.)

Using a spider or large slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the pan with the leek-pea sauce, add the parsley and toss to combine; continue cooking for about 1 minute so everything comes together. Taste, and season with more salt and/or pepper as desired. Divide the gnocchi and sauce among the bowls, shower with the grated Parmesan and serve.

4 servings

Time: 45 minutes

Make ahead: Once formed, the raw gnocchi can be frozen on a sheet tray until solid and then transferred to another container and frozen for up to 2 months. The gnocchi can be cooked directly from frozen, adding a few minutes to the cooking time.

Nutrition | Calories: 581; Total Fat: 29 g; Saturated Fat: 14 g; Cholesterol: 119 mg; Sodium: 540 mg; Carbohydrates: 54 g; Dietary Fiber: 6 g; Sugar: 7 g; Protein: 24 g.

— Aaron Hutcherson, The Washington Post, 2021