This virgin sangria casts a spotlight on juicy summer peaches

Even though canning and freezing have made it possible to have them anytime, anywhere, fresh summer peaches are just about as close to perfection as a food can get. I have no self control when they show up at the farmers market, and have no intention of working on that part of myself. Their season is fleeting, and I’d rather be burdened with too many peaches than even an ounce of regret.

My absolute favorite way to enjoy a fresh peach (seriously) is in a cold shower on a hot day — a peak specimen can — and should — make a terrific mess, and it’s easier to appreciate if you’re not worrying about cleanup. (Coincidentally, properly savoring a peach takes just about the same amount of time as a deep-conditioning treatment.) But there’s only so much time one can spend cooling off in the water, no matter how oppressively hot and humid the weather. With my peach bounty, I’ve made cobblers and cakes, salsas and salads. If you’re motivated, you can find a way to work the fruit into just about anything, including a refreshing beverage.

As I’m sober, this means drowning them in nonalcoholic sparkling white wine for an effervescent virgin sangria. Stirring in ginger beer gives it a kind of bite. I also like to add a handful of cherries because they taste good and, like the peaches, I have too many of them in my fridge, but feel free to use any berry or other stone fruit you’d like, or skip them entirely so you can focus on the good stuff. Peaches really are nature’s candy, whether they’re in your hand or can or wine.

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Virgin White Sangria With Peaches and Cherries

One (750-milliliter) bottle nonalcoholic sparkling white wine, such as Lyre’s Classico

2 large ripe peaches (about 1 pound total), halved, pitted and cut into wedges, plus more for serving

1 cup (3¾ ounces) fresh cherries, preferably black, pitted and halved, plus more for serving

One (150-milliliter) can ginger beer, such as Fever Tree

Ice

In a 1½-quart (1.5-liter) pitcher, combine the sparkling wine, peaches, cherries and ginger beer. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

To serve, pour 1 cup of the sangria into ice-filled wine glasses, adding a cherry and/or a peach slice to each glass.

Servings: 6 (makes about 6 cups)

Substitutions: For nonalcoholic sparkling wine, use nonalcoholic white wine or rosé, or white grape juice. For fresh cherries, use frozen cherries, or fresh or frozen berries. For fresh peaches, use fresh nectarines or apricots, or frozen peaches. Prefer a boozy sangria? Use brut-style sparkling wine, such as a brut prosecco.

Make ahead: The prepared sangria needs to be refrigerated for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days before serving. Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Nutritional Facts per serving (1 cup) | Calories: 89, Fat: 0 g, Saturated Fat: 0 g, Carbohydrates: 23 g, Sodium: 18 mg, Cholesterol: 0 mg, Protein: 1 g, Fiber: 1 g, Sugar: 18 g

— Allison Robicelli