Marinades make the meal memorable

The first big cookout of the season quickly approaches and you're planning to grill some marinated chicken.

"Americans love to marinate what they grill. It's the first thing that weekend grillers think of when they want to add flavor to food," says Elizabeth Karmel, author of "Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned" (2009 Wiley, $19.95).

Before you pick up a bottle of your favorite Italian dressing, pour it all over the chicken and leave it in the fridge overnight you need a marinating refresher course.

We all do.

Karmel and other experts say the majority of grillers think the longer meat soaks, the better, but that is just one of the many marinating myths.

First of all, acidic marinades - those with vinegars, citrus juices, yogurt and buttermilk - can turn good meats bad. Acids don't tenderize meat, they break down the outer layers of meat.

"A marinade that's acid rich is going to start 'cooking' the meat, like what lime juice does to ceviche," Karmel says. "Then it gets mushy when you cook it on a heat source."

Karmel, a Chicagoan who has a line of grill accessories and cookbooks, recommends soaking times of 30 minutes to two hours.

"The more delicate the meat or fish, the shorter the time," she says.

The acid also makes it necessary to use a nonreactive container for soaking. That means a glass, plastic, stainless steal or ceramic dish or bowl; acid will react with aluminum and other metals, imparting a metallic taste to food.

Marinades, no matter what's in them or how long meat or fish soaks in them, do not penetrate deeply.

After soaking chicken breasts for 18 hours in a variety of marinades, the editors at Cook's Illustrated found the flavors did not penetrate beyond the first few millimeters. Thinner cuts of meat or cubes or strips (like for kebabs) with more surface area are the best candidates for marinating, the magazine found.

Still, marinades work wonders for imparting flavor to grilled food.

"You need olive oil, salt and pepper; and then it's time to play with the flavors," Karmel says. "You don't have to be limited to traditional barbecue flavors.

In her book, Karmel gives grillers dozens of recipes for bringing global flavors to outdoor cooking.

"The Asian Lite marinade is so refreshing. The flavors are familiar and satisfying," she says. "And for beef, I'm crazy about the Guinness marinade. It's great with flank steak and onions."

In "Weber's Way to Grill" (2009 Sunset, $24.95) Jamie Purviance introduces cooks to allspice-infused jerk marinade, a Mongolian version with ginger, garlic, honey and oyster sauce, and Barcelona marinade with basil, chopped serrano peppers and sherry vinegar.

Purviance points out that big or tough cuts of meat, like ribs, whole hams, pork shoulder and turkey, can endure soaks of six to 12 hours.

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