advertisement

Make masa an everyday ingredient with these vegan bean and cheese gorditas

I know the word “masa” means dough, particularly corn dough, but it might as well be short for “miracle,” because the process of producing this staple of Mexican (and other Central and South American) cooking is pure alchemy. Dating back to Mesoamerica, nixtamalization (derived from an Aztec phrase) involves boiling field corn with an alkaline substance to soften its hull and make it more nutritious, then grinding it into a dough that can become a variety of traditional products.

Tortillas and tamales might be the best known to us Americans, but the list goes on to include sopes, pupusas, tlacoyas, tlayudas and so many more.

Making tortillas might be the most difficult to master for home cooks, because you need to get the masa disks super-thin, which is why a tortilla press comes in handy. But plenty of other ways to use masa can be done by hand, which is where my recipe this week comes into play.

Gorditas, whose name charmingly translates to “little fat ones” because of their squatter shape, can be patted out, griddled, split open, and stuffed with a filling (often a guisada, or stew). I got the recipe from author Dora Stone, one of the collaborators on my latest book, “Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking,” and they fit right into her mission of showing how much precolonial Mexican cooking was actually vegan.

Stone told me that in her hometown of Ciudad Acuña, a famous gordita cart outside the local hospital offers many vegan options, including refried beans, potatoes in salsa verde, potatoes and poblano peppers, and nopales in a guajillo salsa. For this recipe she kept things simple with refried beans and vegan cheese, but you can feel free to play around with your favorite fillings.

Gorditas walk that line between appetizer and main course, meaning you can make some for a party one night (maybe for the big game?) and then have the leftovers for dinner another. When I have less time, I pan-fry them in a modest amount of oil; when I’ve got more time, I deep-fry them for that much more crispiness.

In case you worry that you need to either nixtamalize your own field corn or buy fresh masa, take heart: Gorditas work beautifully with masa harina, which was made ubiquitous by such companies as Maseca and more recently Bob’s Red Mill. Just add water, a little salt and some baking powder for lift and behold, once again, the miracle of masa.

•••

Vegan Bean and Cheese Gorditas

1 3/4 cups (225 grams) instant masa harina*

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/2 cups (360 milliliters) warm water, plus more as needed

3 tablespoons avocado oil or other neutral oil, plus more as needed

3/4 cup canned low-sodium refried beans (about 1/2 of a 16-ounce can), warmed

3/4 cup (85 grams) crumbled Herb-Marinated Tofu Feta or store-bought vegan feta, such as Violife, plus more for serving

Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving

Salsa Macha or another salsa of your choice, for serving

In a large bowl, combine the masa harina, salt and baking powder and whisk to combine. Pour in the water while using a spoon to slowly mix it into the masa harina. The dough should be moist but not sticky, like a soft Play-Doh. If necessary, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you reach the right consistency. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rest for about 15 minutes.

Uncover the dough and divide it into 12 equal portions (about 45 grams each), rolling each into a ball. Cover the balls with a clean, damp towel as you work. Moisten your hands with a little water and flatten each ball with your hands to make a round patty, about 1/3 inch thick and 3 inches wide.

In a large (12-inch) cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding and reducing the heat slightly if the oil starts to smoke, add 3 or 4 masa rounds and cook until the bottom is crisp and golden with brown spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip them over and cook until the other side is crisp and golden with brown spots, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the rest of the masa rounds, adding a little more oil if the pan seems dry.

Let the gorditas cool slightly. Using a small serrated knife, cut a slit in the edge about halfway around each gordita’s circumference, making a pocket. Fill each gordita with 1 tablespoon of refried beans and 1 tablespoon of vegan feta. Garnish with more feta and cilantro, and serve warm with salsa.

Makes 6 servings (12 gorditas).

*Where to buy: Instant masa harina, such as Maseca or Bob’s Red Mill brands, can be found in well-stocked supermarkets, natural foods stores, international markets and online. Substitutions: For canned refried beans, use home-cooked refried beans. Variations: For crispier gorditas, instead of pan-frying, deep-fry them before cutting and filling.

Nutritional information per serving (2 gorditas): 249 calories, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 32 g carbohydrates, 246 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g protein, 4 g fiber, 1 g sugar.

— Adapted from a recipe by Dora Stone in “Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking” by Joe Yonan (Ten Speed Press, 2024)

Article Comments
Guidelines: Keep it civil and on topic; no profanity, vulgarity, slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about tragedies will be blocked. If a comment violates these standards or our terms of service, click the "flag" link in the lower-right corner of the comment box. To find our more, read our FAQ.