Burnt Tomato Halves

4 firm but ripe tomatoes

Extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt

16 black peppercorns, whole or cracked

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until a drop of water sizzles on the surface. Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half horizontally. Brush the cut side of the tomato halves with olive oil, and sprinkle with coarse salt.

Place the tomatoes cut side down on the hot surface. Do not move for 8-10 minutes, or they will burst and lose their shape. The bottoms of the tomatoes will show a thin black line of char all around when they are done.

Using a sharp-edged spatula, lift the tomatoes off the hot surface and invert onto a serving plate, burnt side up. With a sharp chef's knife, cut crosshatches in the surface of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with whole or cracked peppercorns and oregano, and drizzle with more olive oil. Serve immediately, as a side dish with grilled fish or meat.

Serves four.

"Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way" by Francis Mallmann (2009 Artisan)