Frito Pie with Chili, Fancy Cheeses and Texas Pico

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 pounds ground beef, coarsely ground (see note)

1 cup red chili sauce

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 tomatoes, coarsely chopped

2 cups chicken stock

Kosher salt

1 bag (16 ounces) Fritos

2 cups pico de gallo (see note)

2 cups shredded caciotta or Monterey jack cheese

1 cup goat cheese, crumbled

2 cups crème fraiche or sour cream

Prepare the chili by heating the oil in a stew pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until soft. Add the ground beef and cook until starting to brown, stirring as necessary. Add the red chili sauce, chili powder, oregano, cumin and tomatoes. Stir well to combine. Cook for 5 minutes, then lower the heat to a simmer and add the stock. Simmer the chili, uncovered, for 45-60 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Season with salt to taste.

Remove from heat and set aside until ready to assemble the Frito pie. If preparing ahead of time, place the chili in an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble: Pile the Fritos into serving bowls. Top with the hot chili, pico and cheeses. Drizzle with crème fraiche.

Serves six to eight.

Cook's note: Try this with ground venison or diced boneless quail meat. For homemade pico de gallo try this Texas Pico version: Toss 6 sliced jalapenos, 1 diced red onion, 6 thinly sliced green tomatoes, 2 diced tomatoes and 2 bunches of cilantro (stemmed and minced). Drizzle with the juice of 2 limes and kosher salt. Toss again and let sit 15 minutes before serving.

Nutrition values per serving: 940 calories, 65 g fat (23 g saturated), 48 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 38 g protein, 135 mg cholesterol, 1640 mg sodium.

"The Texas Cowboy Kitchen" by Grady Spears with June Naylor

(2007 Andrews McNeel, $19.95)