Mexican Eggnog -- Rompope

2 quarts milk

1 canela stick (4-inch)

1 can condensed milk (14 oz)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract (preferably Mexican)

5 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup aguardiente (cane liquor) or 96-proof grain alcohol or vodka

5 drops yellow food coloring (optional)

Pour the fresh milk into a medium heavy saucepan, add the canela, and bring to a boil over medium heat, watching to keep it from boiling over. (Sticking a spoon in it sometimes does the trick.) Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Remove and discard the canela. Add the condensed milk, vanilla extract and egg yolks; whisk to combine thoroughly. Add the liquor now for a milder eggnog. If desired, whisk in the food coloring; rompope is supposed to be a rich yellow.

Set the pan over medium-low heat. Stirring constantly, heat it to just below the boil and cook until it thickens to the consistency of a thin cream soup, 3-5 minutes. Watch carefully, because it will curdle if allowed to reach a full boil. Remove from the heat and let cool somewhat, stirring occasionally. For eggnog with a kick, stir in the liquor at this point. Strain into a punch bowl or serving pitcher. Serve chilled.

Makes about 3¾ quarts.

Cook's note: Canela is a spice similar to cinnamon. It is soft and flaky. Look for it where Hispanic foods are sold.

Nutrition values per serving: 220 calories, 7 g fat (3.5 g saturated), 21 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 8 g protein, 90 mg cholesterol, 110 mg sodium.

"Zarela's Veracruz" by Zarela Martinez (2001 Houghton Mifflin)