Red Pork Chile Sauce

10 ancho (dried poblano) chiles4 dried California chiles4 onions, quartered8 cloves garlic2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil3 teaspoons ground cumin2-4 cups pork, chicken or vegetable stock1 can (28 ounces) tomato puree or crushed tomatoes2 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste1 tablespoon salt, plus more to tasteSeed the chiles, rinse and set aside. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Remove the water from heat and add the chiles, pushing them down with a spoon so they are fully submerged. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes.Meanwhile, in a saucepan over medium heat, boil the onions for 25 minutes, until soft.Remove the soaked chiles from the water, reserving 2 cups of the liquid. In a food processor, blend the chiles, onions and garlic. In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Stir the cumin into the hot oil, being careful to not burn the cumin. Add the chile mixture and simmer for 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the stock, 1 cup of the reserved liquid and the tomatoes. Add just enough additional stock and reserved liquid to make saucy. Add the sugar and salt and cook for 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is the consistency of a thin gravy. Taste and add additional salt and sugar if needed. Set aside to cool.Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days, or in the freezer for 2 to 3 months.Makes 10 cups.Nutrition values per 1/4-cup serving: 26 calories, 1 g fat (0 saturated), 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 1 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 275 mg sodium."Tamales 101" by Alice Guadalupe Tapp (2002 10Speed Press, $19.95)