Red Rice

In this straightforward version of a Southern classic, Red Rice cooks entirely on the stove top, in one pot. While canned tomatoes and concentrates are often used, this recipe relies on ripe, in-season tomatoes (although home-canned or -frozen tomatoes are a good substitute) for flavor, and it keeps additional seasonings to a minimum to allow the flavor of the tomatoes and rice to shine. It's essential that the tomatoes be quite ripe so that the juice they produce is sufficient to cook the rice.

Each rice prep step is necessary. Rinsing the grains and then drying them both prevent excess starch from making the resulting dish too sticky. Toasting promotes the distinct, separate grains of the final dish and amplifies the rice's nutty flavor.

If you're looking for a variation and enjoy tart flavors, a small bunch of sorrel, cut into ribbons and added along with the tomatoes, is a nice complement.

1 1/3 cups uncooked long-grain white rice

3 tablespoons peanut oil

1 small yellow onion, cut into small dice (2/3 cup)

1 poblano pepper or ½ green bell pepper, seeded and cut into small dice (2/3 cup)

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3½ cups fresh tomato puree (from 2½ to 3 pounds very ripe tomatoes; see note)

Use a bowl and a fine-mesh strainer to rinse the rice with several changes of water, rubbing the grains together with your fingers until the rice no longer clouds the water in the bowl. Drain the rice a final time, then spread it on a baking sheet to air-dry.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the onion and the poblano or green bell pepper. Cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until the onion becomes translucent.

Stir in the rice to coat; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently and reducing the heat to prevent browning the rice. It should smell nutty and begin to turn opaque.

Add the salt, black pepper and tomato puree; increase the heat as needed to bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover tightly and cook for 20 minutes, undisturbed.

Turn off the heat; keep the pot covered and let the rice sit for 20 minutes.

Use a wide spatula to gently turn the rice from the bottom of the pot, and fluff the grains with a fork.

Note: To make the tomato puree, core the tomatoes and cut them in half. Grate their cut sides on the large-holed sides of a box grater set inside a large bowl. Discard the skins; you will use the pulp and seeds and juice. The yield is 3½ cups. Alternatively, peel and core the tomatoes, then run them through a blender on the lowest speed.

Leftovers can be covered and reheated in a 300-degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes, turning once halfway through reheating.

Serves 6 (makes about 5 cups)

Nutrition | Calories: 250; Total Fat: 7 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 370 mg; Carbohydrates: 42 g; Dietary Fiber: 3 g; Sugars: 6 g; Protein: 5 g.

Emily Horton