Goan-Style Shrimp Curry

Marinade

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon ground peppercorns

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons lemon juice (from about ½ lemon)

1 pound large or extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined

Sauce

1 cup water

¼ cup canola oil

24 curry leaves, roughly torn (optional)

4 dried red chiles

1 teaspoon ground peppercorns

1 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced

1 medium red onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon turmeric

2 cups canned chopped tomatoes

1 teaspoon Sambhaar or ½ teaspoon curry powder

1½ cups coconut milk

1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

For the marinade: Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag. Add the shrimp, toss to coat, and refrigerate.

For the sauce: Set ½ cup water next to the stovetop. Heat the oil with the curry leaves (if using) in a medium pot over medium-high heat until the curry leaves start to sizzle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ground peppercorns and cook for 1 minute longer. Stir in the ginger, onion and salt, and cook, stirring often, until the onion is browned, about 8 minutes, sprinkling with water and stirring whenever the onion and ginger begin to stick to the bottom of the pot.

Add the garlic, coriander and turmeric and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the tomatoes to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping browned bits up from the sides and bottom of the pot, for 1 minute.

Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer for 1 minute, stirring often. Stir in the Sambhaar and cook for 1 minute, and then pour in the coconut milk and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp and any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer and cook until the shrimp are curled and opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and serve.

Serves eight.

Nutrition values per serving: 230 calories, 17 g fat (9 g saturated), 6 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 14 g protein, 110 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium.

"American Masala" by Suvir Saran (2007 Clarkson Potter, $35)