Poblano pepper and bacon add Southwestern flair to corn chowder

OK, full disclosure here. Today’s soup is Southwestern Corn Chowder, which I selected because we’re heading into corn season.

However, I just couldn’t do it.

When presented with fresh, seasonal corn on the cob, I’m going to eat corn on the cob. Period. End of discussion. I’m going to slather it with butter, sprinkle on plenty of salt and pepper, and enjoy every bite exactly as nature intended. No fritters. No casseroles. No salads. Just corn.

So, for this recipe, I turned to frozen corn — and it worked beautifully. In fact, it was more than fine. A quick rinse removes any lingering ice crystals, and the sweet corn flavor still shines through.

With the addition of poblano pepper, a touch of cayenne and fresh cilantro, this chowder lets the corn remain center stage while adding just enough Southwestern flair to keep things interesting. The potatoes provide body and heartiness, but I skipped peeling them because, frankly, life is too short.

There are plenty of ways to customize this recipe. A generous splash of olive oil can replace the bacon for a vegetarian version. I used heavy cream for richness, but a lighter cream or dairy-free alternative would work well, too.

And while I’ll happily save the fresh-picked sweet corn for eating straight off the cob, this chowder is proof that you can still capture the flavors of summer in a bowl — even when you use the frozen stuff.

• M. Eileen Brown is a longtime journalist and an incurable soup-a-holic.

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Southwestern Corn Chowder

4 ounces bacon (5 or 6 slices), cut into ½-inch pieces

1 medium onion, diced large

1 large carrot, cut into ½-inch rounds

2 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch slices

1 fresh small poblano chile, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice

Coarse salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Freshly ground pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 cup dry white wine

1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

5 cups chicken or vegetable stock

3 cups fresh corn kernels (about 6 ears)

1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

Hot sauce, such as Tabasco (optional)

Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add bacon pieces, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

Add onion to pot; cook until just softened. Add carrot, celery, and poblano; cook until vegetables are just tender. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt, the cumin, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and the cayenne.

Raise heat to high; add wine. Cook until most liquid has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add potatoes and stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; gently simmer until all vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

Stir in corn and cream; cook until corn is tender (do not let cream boil), about 5 minutes more. Stir in cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with cilantro and reserved bacon pieces; add hot sauce, if desired.

Serves six

— Adapted from marthastewart.com