Chardonnay for autumn’s colors and flavors
Color coding isn’t a foolproof strategy for pairing wine and food, but it’s easier than studying wine’s organoleptic qualities and a lot more accurate than choosing wine by its label.
Wisdom of the ages
“Red wine with meat, white wine with white meat and seafood” is the most famous example of color coding. It withstands the test of time because it makes delicious sense. White wine’s lemony tartness — in the form of tartaric, malic and citric acids — refreshes the palate, just like that lemon wedge served with every seafood dish you’ve ever ordered. Red wine’s tannic acid helps the body digest red meat, while meat’s fat and protein soften red wine’s bitterness, like cream softens coffee.
In autumn, my favorite color coding is Chardonnay and autumnal cuisine. As leaves morph to yellow, oranges and eventually brown, our markets provide apples to bake with pork chops, pumpkin to stuff in ravioli and mushrooms to be sautéed for risotto or grilled steak. There’s a shade of Chardonnay for each of these dishes, especially because they incorporate butter.
Who put butter in my wine?
There’s butter in Chardonnay too, sort of. Chardonnay’s production often involves malolactic (ML) fermentation, which endows the wine with diacetyl, the compound that makes butter taste like butter. Then, oak contact adds vanilla and brown spice, along with viscous, buttery texture. Thus is born “buttery” Chardonnay, a phrase that’s one of wine’s most successful marketing coups.
Here's the rub: Chardonnay is one of the most adaptable grapes, easily reflecting each vineyard’s unique soil and climate, and winemaking style. Without popping the bottle, there’s little way to determine a Chardonnay’s flavors. Turn to a trusted wine merchant to pair Chardonnay to your palate, pocketbook and recipe or look for some of my favorites:
Early autumn shades for lighter dishes
For mushroom consommé, crab salad, Cheddar cheese with apples and other light autumn dishes, look for Chardonnay grown in cool climates (Oregon, Chile, northern France) with little to no oak. The wine’s light green-yellow hues hint at light, tart and refreshing flavors. Favorites include Chardonnay, Los Vascos (Chile), a beautifully crafted value at about $12, and J.C. Somers “La Revanche” (Willamette Valley, Oregon), a sophisticated and complex homage to France’s Chablis, about $30. To celebrate king crab season or just Friday night, serve a 100% Chardonnay Champagne such as Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne Pierre Moncuit-Delos, about $50.
Richer hues for richer dishes
The yellows of maple and auburns of oak signal a Chardonnay with barrel contact, along with complex flavors and rich viscosity, especially when grown in a warm climate, such as California, Washington state or Australia.
Chardonnay “Dutton Ranch” Dutton Goldfield (California): Specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir since 1998, Dutton Goldfield produces a range of classy, delicious wines. Richly oaked and buttery, with satin texture, “Dutton Ranch” exemplifies why Chardonnay became the world’s favorite white wine. About $50.
Pomino Bianco Riserva DOC “Benefizio,” Frescobaldi (Italy): Decadent and statuesque, a blonde bombshell of a wine, with meticulous oak management, partial ML and maturation on the lees (spent yeast cells), reminding this palate of truffle butter. About $60.
Chardonnay “Riva Ranch” Wente Family Vineyards (California): Established in 1883, still family-owned and operated. Founding brother Ernest’s Wente Chardonnay clone is planted in 80% of U.S. vineyards. “Riva Ranch” is 90% barrel fermented with 100% ML for rich mouthfeel and buttered toast flavors. A consistent value, under $20.
As daylight wanes and the aroma of burning leaves fills the air, serve these Chardonnays to satisfy the palate and soul with rich dishes like truffle risotto, savory recipes of pumpkin or acorn squash and sautéed mushrooms with white and even red meats.
Learn about American-made wines
The wines of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and others were once exclusively associated with Europe. But in two centuries of grit, ingenuity and science, U.S. winemakers toppled the Old World’s 1,000-year wine dominance. Join me in “Made in America: Exploring the Wines of the U.S.A.” to discuss our country’s dynamic wine history and taste five hand-craft wines that define the wine world’s new classic flavors. 6:30-8 p.m. Friday, Oct. 17, at The Chopping Block, 4747 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago. For details and to register, please visit thechoppingblock.com.
• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.