Trail of History lives in McHenry County

Ann Basten enjoys her role as a member of the cabin family at the Trail of History.

Dressed in a prairie skirt, white blouse and bonnet, she plays the part of an 1838 pioneer woman.

Basten spends the day cooking the family's meal over a hot fire, tending to chores and chatting with some of the 12,000 people who turn out for the living history event, presented every October for the past 19 years by the McHenry County Conservation District at Glacial Park Conservation Area in Ringwood.

But at 4 p.m. when the guests exit the park via the one-mile-long trail that winds past tall trees and the kettle bog, Basten and the other 200 volunteers do not shed their costumes and return to the 21st century. Instead, they remain in character and continue about their tasks as if their pocket watches were permanently turned back some 200 to 300 years.

"Everyone who camps out in the valley must dress and act period-appropriately," said Basten, whose present-day job is executive assistant for MCCD.

"We're there for the ambience. There are no flashlights. All the cooking, lighting, and other work must all be done as it was done in 1838."

For most of the campers - historical re-enactors who have traveled from as far away as Iowa, Missouri, Minnesota, Indiana, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Ohio and North Dakota over the years - that typically means preparing the nightly meal over open fire pits.

For Bastens' cabin family, which has the luxury of sleeping in the only wooden structure in the encampment, dinner can be biscuits and gravy, or a baked whole pumpkin washed down with a swig of old-fashioned root beer.

Some folks, who portray early settlers, immigrants, fur traders and Native American Indians who inhabited the Northwest Territory from 1670 to 1850, share their delicacies in a giant potluck meal.

As night falls upon the valley, the campers rely on crackling fires, lanterns, candles and the stars above to light their way. After completing dinner and washing the dishes with water boiled over the fires, the valley dwellers settle back for interesting conversation, story telling, sing-a-longs, or impromptu performances by the same characters who entertain the crowds by day.

"You can hear the music all over the camp in the dark," said Basten, who's joined by her husband, Scott. "There are a lot of drum groups, and a bagpiper plays every evening.

"It's nice to wake up in the morning and be in a fog. You wake up, and you feel like you're in the middle of nowhere. The geese are flying, the cranes are out feeding, and you're surrounded by wetlands. It's very special."

Many of the campers are close friends, and travel to similar historical presentations and multi-day events throughout the country every summer. For most, Trail of History is the final of its kind for the season, and they treasure their last days together until winter sets in.

Some of the campers arrive as early as Wednesday or Thursday to participate in the Trail's Friday school-day program held for 1,200 area fifth-graders. The rest of the re-enactors roll into the encampment Friday, and most will stay round the clock until Sunday or Monday.

The encampment has no shower facilities, and campers must use outhouses instead of modern-day plumbing amenities. The conservation district brings in water for cooking.

One tradition unique to the Trail of History is a Saturday night candlelight walk up the steep slope of the kames, a ridge shaped by glacial meltwater 12,000 years ago that rises 75 feet above the valley. Hikers make the strenuous climb in procession carrying candles. Those who can't make the climb watch from the valley below and swing their lanterns in honor of those above them. Sometimes, the group sings songs, or pays tribute to a friend or re-enactor who has passed away.

"It's quite beautiful," said Kim Caldwell, who is co-Booshway (camp director) of the Trail of History, and also serves as MCCD's education program coordinator. "Up to 50 people participate in the walk. I usually make a speech and talk about the significance of the kames, which is such a special and unique place.

"The whole experience is very peaceful. It's almost refreshing to resort back to a time of having no electricity, and no outside noises."

Chuck Williams, who co-founded the first Trail of History in 1988, originally termed Kames Rendezvous, has participated every year. He dresses in character as Scotsman "Charles W. Walker," a land agent from the late 18th Century. The retired high school counselor from Arlington Heights and his wife, Christine, and daughter, Jessica, assume roles as members of the Wapiti Trading Co. Over the years, they've slept on hay, cots, and even the cold, hard ground. These days, they bring along a wooden time-period bed, erected in their 12-by 13-foot wall tent.

"I am a people person," Williams said. "I really enjoy talking to visitors, and sharing history. My wife and I are historical re-enactors for schools and other events. But, oh, nighttime at the Trail of History is always the best."

Williams and his group of campers meet in his dining fly, a smaller tent with open sides, and enjoy sparkling conversations under the dim lighting of an antique candle chandelier.

"We will talk about our experiences, and the historical research we have done - which is abundant," said Williams. "But we also talk about what historical events are coming up that we can do, too."

Williams frequently participates in historical events throughout the country, assuming several other roles, such as a minuteman in a Revolutionary War re-enactment in Vincennes, Ind., or a colonial militia soldier at Fort Niagra in upstate New York. But he said the Trail of History has become the premiere event of its kind in the Midwest.

The Trail is a juried program, and re-enactors must send pictures of their costumes, props and tents as well as perform their character for the steering committee before they are allowed in.

Williams has many treasured memories of his days at the Trail. One of the most moving experiences he had was the year the conservation district found the graves of the four Martin children, the infant children of the land's former owners. Re-enactors gathered for a formal procession from the camp's main stage to the graves, where they placed new head stones.

"I remember after the ceremony there was a bagpiper from Scotland who stood at the top of the kames," Williams said. "He was wearing full Scottish garment and kilt, and he played 'Amazing Grace' and several other songs. The music was so beautiful, it silenced the whole camp. It was like a parting for the souls."

The Trail of History is held in the natural setting of Glacial Park just as the prairie grasses and trees display their vibrant, fall colors. The 3,273-acre park offers restored prairies, oak savannas, wetlands and the Lost Valley Marsh. The living history event portrays life as it was in the former Northwest Territory, which encompassed present day Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio and parts of eastern Minnesota. The program's focus is on the interrelationship between nature, man and cultural development.

What you need to know about the Trail of History

The scene: Step back in time to the former Northwest Territory from 1670 to 1850. Visit the one-room schoolhouse, historical kitchen, log cabin, wigwams, tepees and Metis village. See military tactics and calvary demonstrations, candle making, the traveling medicine man show, oxen-led wagon, sheep herding, and voyageur landing re-enactment between French fur traders and Native Americans at the Nippersink Creek.

Kids' activities include corn husk doll making, historical dress-up and trading blanket. There are handmade crafts for sale.

When and where: The event takes place 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 18 and 19 at Glacial Park Conservation Area, 6316 Harts Road, just off Route 31, north of Ringwood.

How much? Admission is $6 adults, $2 for seniors and children age 6 to 12. Children 5 and younger admitted free.

Tips: Parking is free, but be prepared to hike - both through the parking lot and on the hilly one-mile trail to the encampment.

• There are over 100 exhibits, so plan on spending at least three hours at the event; don't show up an hour before closing.

• Food and drink is available for purchase, but visitors may bring their own as well.

• Wear sturdy shoes and bring a sweatshirt and wet wipes; the area is often windy and may be dusty or muddy.

• A favorite kids' activity is doing chores in the "indentured servants" area.

• MCCD provides a special needs parking area with a shuttle bus to the event site for visitors with disabilities.

Info: Visit MCCDistrict.org, or call (815) 338-6223.