Asian Dipping Sauce With Scallion Brushes

12 thin scallions

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons orange juice

1 tablespoon vinegar (rice, Chinese black or cider)

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

Chili oil (optional)

To make the scallion brushes, cut off and discard the root ends and all but 3 inches of the greens. Using scissors or a small paring knife, cut multiple 1/2-inch slits down the shafts of the scallion greens to create a fringe.

Fill a bowl with ice and water, then place the scallions in it. Refrigerate for 2 hours, or until the fringed edges curl up.

After 90 minutes of chilling, prepare the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, orange juice, vinegar, toasted sesame oil, ginger and, if desired, several drops of chili oil. Cover and let the flavors combine for 30 minutes.

Once the brushes are ready, the sauce can be divided into individual serving bowls, each with its own brush. The scallion brushes are used to apply the sauce to the latkes.

Serves 12.

Adapted from "Jewish Holiday Cooking" by Jayne Cohen (2008 Wiley)