Have it your way: Wine flavors that satisfy market trends

Winemakers have worked for millennia to make the best wine possible, both for sales to support their families and so everyone has something good to drink for dinner. Traditionally, “the best” meant wines that reflected unique regional flavors to attract even more sales, the same as Idaho’s starchy potatoes or Vidalia’s uniquely sweet onions. Today, it means flavors that satisfy market trends. Often, tradition and survey data meet, as in the wines below.

You want it dry, here’s dry

Riesling, Joseph Cattin 2023 (Alsace, France): In the U.S., folks generally begin to perceive sweetness at about 6 grams of sugar per liter. For perspective, Brut Champagne is allowed up to 12 grams per liter (g/l); soda averages about 110 g/l. Joseph Cattin Rieslings are under 4.

For those unfamiliar with dry Riesling, these bone-dry flavors may come as a shock, like a dive into Lake Michigan in June. The first splash of flavor is Alsace’s famed acidity, firmed up in the chilly climate of northeast France’s Vosges Mountains. There’s fruit but not the ripe peach flavors of warmer climate Riesling. This wine is more grapefruit, with a palate grip that reminds me of a sprinkle of grapefruit rind.

In Alsace, the wine is paired with slow-cooked meaty stews and sausages. In the absence of a neighborhood charcutier, I opted for the super savory, umami-bomb of Chinese cuisine, specifically beef chow fun. The wine’s acid wove through luxurious oils, while softening the meat like a red wine’s tannin. Delicate fruit balanced delicate spiciness; for a spicier dish, choose a sweeter wine.

Another traditional pairing is salmon, in which the bone-dry wine seems to evoke a whisper of sweetness. Try it with other foods deemed sweet, including shrimp, fresh cheese and sweet peas.

This just in: The Wine Enthusiast has nominated Cattin’s U.S. importer, T. Edward Wines & Spirits (New York), as an Importer of the Year, described as managing an “in-touch and passionate portfolio.” Check with your wine merchant for these well-crafted wines. Distributed by Lagniappe Beverage, Chicago. Available in wine shops, about $17.

Classic wine for modern tastes

Chateauneuf-du Pape “La Bernadine,” M. Chapoutier 2023 (Rhone Valley, France): Surveys say that today’s shoppers want a story: During the Catholic Schism of 1378, there was one too many Popes in Rome, so the “antipope” Clement VII hightailed it into France, dubbing his castle a “new home for the Pope” or Chateauneuf du Pape. Story, check.

They want authenticity: In the 1800s, the Chapoutier family arrived in the Rhone, entered the wine trade and established vineyards in 1879. The property is currently managed by seventh generation Michel, with the eighth generation taking reins in marketing and winemaking.

In the 1990s, to fully express his vineyards’ unique flavors and to protect the earth from chemicals, Michel mandated organic agriculture, including biodynamic farming ― the tippy-top of organic agriculture ― supporting his values “wine comes from the sky, the earth, and our love for it.” Authenticity, check.

They’re concerned with social consciousness: In addition to green farming practices, in 1994, Michel instituted Braille labels to aid visually impaired wine lovers. Social consciousness, check.

They’re willing to spend a little more for exciting flavors: “La Bernadine” reminds me of an NFL linebacker packed into a designer suit ― muscle, cashmere and swagger. Only thick-skinned grapes can survive the region’s intense heat (Chicagoans may know the feeling), which endow the wine with massive tannin and rich alcohol, but also extra-ripe berry fruit with brown spice and roasted coffee accents packed into luxurious texture.

Distributed by Breakthu Beverage (Cicero) and available at wine and spirits shops including Garfield’s Beverage Warehouse (Norridge) and SavWay Fine Wines & Spirits (multiple locations).

SRP is $71.99 but may be discounted in Chicago’s competitive pricing.

One-stop shopping

Pinot Noir, Leese-Fitch 2025 (California): If convenience influences your shopping, then Illinois’ regulation allowing wine sold in grocery stores is a godsend. Leese-Fitch is a grocery stalwart. Ripened in California’s golden sunshine, with soft texture and light, spiced cherry flavor, this is a quaff for all seasons, to serve as chilled, red wine cocktail or with light meats and poultry ― even Thanksgiving turkey. Distributed by Southern-Glazer’s (Bolingbrook); widely available for about $13.99.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.