For authenticity, look to the wines of Georgia

A lot can happen in 8,000 years, and the wines of Georgia, grown along the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, have seen it all.

For instance, Chardonnay, Cabernet and other French grapes began their wine world domination in the 1700s. But still today, Georgian winemakers plant the red Saperavi, the white Rkatsiteli and other native varieties — 437 in all — as they have for 4,000 years.

Oak barrels became a popular wine storage vessel in about 350 BCE; stainless steel tanks came along in the 1960s. Still, Georgian producers favor qvevri, hand-made clay vessels, buried underground. It was a group of qvevri, unearthed in 2017 and dated by DNA testing as originating in 6,000 BCE, that led the National Academy of Sciences to proclaim Georgia as the birthplace of wine production.

So, for those looking for authenticity in their wine drinking, there’s not much more authentic than the wines of Georgia.

Georgia is the meeting place of Europe and Asia. About the size of West Virginia, Georgia climbs from the Black Sea’s eastern shores into the peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, Europe’s highest mountain range. The Caucasus shield Georgia from frigid northern wind; limestone-rich mountain streams draining into valleys irrigate vineyards. The Black Sea provides warm, moist air and mineral-laden soil, all contributing to unique wine flavors.

Georgia recognizes more than 100,000 family wineries. Still, stories remain of family vineyards being uprooted during Russian occupation in 1921. In 1991, following the U.S.S.R.’s dissolution, vineyard revitalization began. While national wine consumption is a robust 25 liters per capita per year, Georgia exports to 68 countries, including Russia, Germany and the United States.

Just as World War II veterans brought their newfound tastes for French wine back home from “over there,” present-day service members returning from Eastern Europe have created a market for Georgian wine in the U.S. Some have even partnered with Georgian producers to help that market grow.

Parsons Fine Wine Imports is owned and operated by Kit Parsons, serving in the U.S. Marine Corps. A recent tasting sponsored by Wines of Georgia featured his import, Sparkling Brut, Chateau Buera. The sparkler’s teensy bubbles hint to long maturation, as in the traditional method of Champagne, resting 24 months on its yeast. The result is intriguing aroma, varied flavors of stone fruit and baked bread, caressing texture and long, rich finish. (Distributed Simple Farmer Wines, Chicago, suggested retail price (SRP) $28.99. Check with local Binny’s Beverage Depot for availability.). The wine’s complexity makes it an exciting complement to a range of dishes, as served during a Georgian supra, a traditional feast.

The supra feast is central to Georgian social life, knitting together family, friends, neighbors and guests. Along with the enjoyment of wine and food, the community follows a tamada (toastmaster) in fables celebrating life, love, the divine and hospitality — a core Georgian value. The Wines of Georgia tasting featured a mini- supra, with dishes including eggplant roulade with pomegranates, khachapuri (pastry filled with cheese or meat), pkhali (succulent spreads of leeks or spinach with walnuts, garlic and herbs), and baklava, all provided by Oda Chicago, 5657 N. Clark St., Chicago.

Silk Road Wines is also veteran-owned, with 10% of proceeds donated to first responders and vets. Silk Road MaNavi (SRP $14.99) is described as dry, but this palate recognized delicate sweetness and round flavors of ripe stone fruit and yellow apple, brown spice accents and refreshing acidity. Silk Road Alazani (SRP $13.99) is a semi-sweet red, a perfect pairing for spicy barbecued ribs, Szechuan beef or lamb curry. (Distributed by Louis Glunz Wines, Lincolnshire. Check with Binny’s.)

Saperavi Qvevri, Gurashvili Family Vineyards (SRP $28) is an example of Georgia’s bold reds. Saperavi is a rare teinturier, a grape with red flesh. (Sommelier students, remember this grape!) With red juice and skins fermented and macerated in qvevri for five months, the wine is dense ruby red, with substantial tannin, a worthy complement to mtszadi (grilled meat shish kebabs, marinated in pomegranate juice and spices, served with tkemali plum sauce). (Distributed by Geo USA Trading, Lombard. Check with Binny’s.)

For more old and new information about the wines of Georgia, visit winesgeorgia.com. And for your Georgian toast: სადღეგრძელო, pronounciation Sad-ghe-grdze-lo: “For long life!”

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.