A 30-minute shrimp stew offers a vibrant taste of Brazil

One of the powers of food I appreciate most is its ability to transport — how eating cinnamon toast or chicken noodle soup brings me right back to my childhood, or enjoying a lobster roll puts me on a dock in New England on a sunny summer day.

I can usually use some transporting this time of year as the midwinter doldrums sink in, and this recipe certainly does the trick. I’ve never been to Brazil, but since my husband does Brazilian jujitsu, we have many friends from there, and one of them turned me on to moqueca, a stew that features seafood simmered in a coconut milk broth with tomatoes, garlic, onion, cilantro, lime and, often, bell peppers. When I am eating it, I can easily imagine myself on a warm, breezy beach there.

The stew boasts a brilliant red hue, traditionally from either red palm oil or annatto (also known as achiote), but in this quick, one-pan recipe, sweet paprika does the job. Sauté the bell pepper and onion in a little olive oil, then add the spices and a can of tomatoes, and cook until the juices from the tomatoes have reduced a bit. Tip in the coconut milk and shrimp, and simmer until the seafood is just cooked through. (I use light coconut milk to keep the saturated fat in check.)

In less than 30 minutes, you’ll be rewarded with a sumptuously tasty and healthful dish, with succulent shrimp and sweet peppers in a creamy, aromatic sauce. Served with rice, if you’d like, and showered with cilantro, it’s a meal that feels like a joyful escape.

• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian nutritionist and cookbook author who hosts public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good Food.” Learn more at www.elliekrieger.com.

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Brazilian-Style Shrimp Stew

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium yellow onion (8 ounces), diced

1 medium red bell pepper, diced

4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided

3 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

One (14.5-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes, with their juices

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 to 2 limes)

½ teaspoon fine salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup light coconut milk (from one 13.5-ounce can)

1¼ pounds large shrimp (26-30 count), peeled, deveined and tails removed

Cooked rice, for serving (optional)

In a large (12-inch) high-sided skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and bell pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the cilantro, the garlic, paprika and cayenne pepper, and cook, stirring, until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, with their juices, followed by the lime juice, salt and black pepper, and stir to incorporate.

Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook until the liquid reduces slightly, about 5 minutes, then add the coconut milk and return the mixture to a boil. Stir in the shrimp, reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are cooked through, opaque and pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Garnish with the remaining 3 tablespoons of cilantro and serve, with rice, if desired.

Servings: 4-6 (makes about 6 cups)

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Substitutions: For red bell pepper, use orange or yellow bell pepper. For lime juice, use lemon juice. For cilantro, use parsley. For light coconut milk, use full-fat coconut milk. For yellow onion, use white onion. For fresh shrimp, use frozen shrimp, no need to defrost. (Frozen shrimp are often sold in 1-pound bags, so use that amount.)

Nutritional facts per serving (about 1 cup), based on 6: Calories: 189, Fat: 8 g, Saturated Fat: 3 g, Carbohydrates: 11 g, Sodium: 313 mg, Cholesterol: 152 mg, Protein: 21 g, Fiber: 2 g, Sugar: 5 g.

— Ellie Krieger