Want to drink like a pope? Try this Lazio red
The U.S. has proudly worn its banner of World’s Top Wine Consumer by volume for more than a decade. But honors for top consumption per capita are held by another country, the Vatican.
The Holy See, along with the Swiss Guard, workers and 30 million worshippers, diners at Bistrot La Pigna and other visitors consume about 79 liters per person per year, or about 99 bottles, according to Wine Enthusiast. (In 2023, U.S. consumption was roughly 10 liters per person per year, or about 14 bottles, according to the California-based Wine Institute.)
Like the rest of Italy, the Vatican consumes primarily Italian wine. But unlike other regions that drink locally produced beverages, the Vatican must import wine into Lazio, Rome’s region that is currently not on the wine world’s radar. This may change.
In 2023, the Vatican planted two hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon in Castel Gandolfo, the papal summer residence, with bottling expected in 2026.
If you’d rather not wait, a Lazio wine that may be on the pope’s table is Tenuta di Fiorano, Fiorano Rosso. Pioneered by Prince Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi (for whom the wine is sometimes named), this Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine receives high marks from international cognoscenti for juicy berry flavors, white pepper, and tobacco complexity and fine tannins. In Chicagoland, availability is primarily in restaurants, but it has been carried at Eataly for $80 per bottle. (Distributed by Lagniappe Beverages, Chicago)
It remains to be seen if Pope Leo is as much of a wine lover as Pope Francis, who called wine a “Gift from God” and “a true source of joy,” echoing our Founding Father Benjamin Franklin’s belief that wine is constant proof that God loves us and wants to see us happy.
You want It dry? Here’s dry
Rosè Solera, Champagne Palmer (France): Nearly bone-dry at 6 grams to 7 grams per liter of residual sugar, this Champagne balances fresh berry flavors with rich complexity, from the addition of 8% Pinot Noir reserve begun 50 years ago and refreshed every year, similar to Spain’s solera system. “We don’t do it for fun,” says Managing Director Remi Vervier. “With grapes of this character, we need an extra ingredient — time.” The wine is aged three years on lees (yeast cells spent in fermentation) and released when ready to drink. (At Binny’s, $69.99, distributed by Burke Beverage, McCook)
Wine geek alert! Residual sugar (r.s.) is sugar remaining in wine after fermentation, measured in grams per liter (g/l). Most Europeans taste sweetness at 3 g/l, most Americans at 6 g/l. In Champagne, r.s. comes from the dosage, a dose of sugar added to balance acidity.
The European Union increased r.s. on sparkling wines labeled Brut — generally the driest style — to 12 g/l, yielding sweetish flavors in many Champagnes. But Palmer holds firm to low dosage, even producing a rare zero dosage La Rèserve, hopefully available in the Chicago area in autumn 2025. Says Vervier: “Sugar should never be tasted, it’s just a polish to let other flavors reveal themselves.”
In response to news that the Champagne region has set the lowest limits on production since 2020, Vervier says: “Champagne sales are down because people aren’t celebrating. It’s the same in Singapore, Paris and Chicago. We will recover because people want to celebrate.”
During our lunch at Beatrix Chicago, the Rosè Solera’s tannin took a firm bite into my juicy Prime Burger, reminding me that there are few better excuses to celebrate than hamburger season in Chicago. But if it’s not a burger on your grill, try Rosè Solera with other rich dishes including duck, pork belly, even cracklins!
• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.