Pasta salad with salmon and dill is a fresh dish with retro vibes

The expansive salad bar at the Log Jam Restaurant in Lake George, New York, which I visited recently, made me feel like a time traveler. It shuttled me back to the all-you-can-eat spreads that mesmerized me as a kid at the “fancy” restaurants my parents would occasionally take us to. I haven’t seen one like it in decades.

Spanning the width of the main dining room is a salad bar you could easily make a meal out of, with soup; slice-your-own bread from a selection of warm loaves; a colorful variety of leafy greens and chopped, fresh vegetables; and olives, cheeses and every type of dressing you could imagine.

It’s also stocked with several prepared salads that have delightful retro ladies’ luncheon vibes: potato salad, pea and onion salad, chicken salad and a pasta salad with tuna.

It was heaven, and I can’t wait to return.

Until I do, my version of their pasta salad will tide me over. It’s made with the same shell-shaped pasta, which acts like little cups, catching the rest of the ingredients. I switched to canned salmon instead of tuna, stirring it with some of the dressing first to create a smooth-ish mixture, much like one you’d use on a sandwich. Like the restaurant’s, the dressing is a rich, mayo-based one, but is spiked with Greek yogurt for lightness and tang — and is seasoned with mustard, lemon and a generous helping of fresh dill.

I tossed the salmon salad with cooked pasta shells, celery and onion, and the rest of the dressing, and served it on a bed of lettuce leaves for the full retro effect.

Once assembled, it makes for a nostalgic, filling meal — much like the one at the salad bar that inspired it.

• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian nutritionist and cookbook author who hosts public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good Food.” Learn more at www.elliekrieger.com.

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Pasta Salad With Salmon and Dill

⅛ teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed

8 ounces small or medium dried pasta shells

½ cup plain Greek yogurt (any fat level)

⅓ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup chopped fresh dill, plus fronds for serving

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (from the same lemon)

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 (5- to 6-ounce) cans or pouches skinless, boneless salmon, drained

1 cup chopped celery (1 to 2 ribs)

½ cup thinly sliced red onion

Romaine or baby gem lettuce, for serving

Bring a medium (4-quart) pot of water to a boil over high heat. Season the water with salt, if desired, and cook the pasta according to the package directions until al dente. Drain the pasta thoroughly and refrigerate until it cools completely, at least 30 minutes, or until needed.

In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, mayonnaise, dill, mustard, lemon zest and juice, the ⅛ teaspoon of the salt and the pepper until combined.

In a large bowl, use a fork to break up the salmon into chunks. Add about half of the dressing and stir to coat. Add the celery, onion, the cooled pasta and the remaining dressing, and gently toss to combine.

Place about 6 leaves of the lettuce onto each serving plate, or arrange them all on one big serving platter. Mound the pasta salad on top, garnish with dill fronds and serve.

Makes 4 servings (7 cups salad).

Substitutions: For pasta shells, use other dried short pasta shapes, such as orecchiette or elbow macaroni. Dairy-free? Use nondairy yogurt. Egg-free? Use vegan mayonnaise. Gluten-free? Use gluten-free pasta. For red onion, use other types of onion. For dill, use parsley or chives. For Dijon mustard, use other kinds of smooth mustard.

Make ahead: The pasta needs to be cooked and chilled at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days before making the salad.

Storage: Refrigerate the salad for up to 2 days. Before eating, let sit on the counter for about 20 minutes to take the chill off.

Nutrition per serving (1 3/4 cups pasta salad and about 6 lettuce leaves, using nonfat Greek yogurt): 343 calories, 21g carbohydrates, 68mg cholesterol, 17g fat, 2g fiber, 24g protein, 3g saturated fat, 573mg sodium, 2g sugar

— From cookbook author and registered dietitian nutritionist Ellie Krieger