If you like Pinot Grigio, try this refreshing and affordable Austrian standout
In 1979 Pinot Grigio burst into the U.S. as a light, dry and lemony alternative to the overbearing Chardonnays of the day. Then, in 1992 the USDA scrapped the four food groups dietary guideline in favor of the food pyramid. Meat and potatoes were out, the Mediterranean diet based on grains was in. As steakhouses closed and ristorantes multiplied, Pinot Grigio — a minor grape in Italy — became the superstar of American wine lists. Today, Pinot Grigio is second only to Chardonnay in U.S. white wine sales.
But success has its costs. Overplanting in Italy and international copycats have replaced Pinot Grigio’s vivacity with dull, often sweetish wines.
For a refreshing alternative, try Gruner Veltliner. Almost exclusively Austrian-grown, Gruner Veltliner (GROO-ner VELT-leener) features lemon-lime, fresh herb and unique white pepper flavors. While rich styles, labeled Reserve or Smaragd, are the choice for Weiner Schnitzel, simpler wines are the quaff of beisls (bistros), served with frankfurters and brats, Brettljause (cheese and cold cut platter) and even spargel (asparagus), which is notoriously unfriendly to most wine. For extra quality/value, look for:
Gruner Veltliner, Helenental #GVLTAT: The liter-sized bottle is a hint that you’ll enjoy this wine with gusto. It’s a juicy fruit bowl of lemon-lime, pear and grapefruit flavor with characteristic white pepper accents. Light (12.5% alcohol) and dry (5 grams per liter sugar), it’s delicious with lighter fare, a dynamic cocktail and a perfect base for a spritzer — just splash in the soda water. Available at wine shops, including In Fine Spirits (Chicago), about $14.99 per liter. Distributed by Louis Glunz Wines (Lincolnshire).
Taste American History with Mayacamas
Driving westbound from Napa to Sonoma Valley through the Mayacamas Mountains is not for the faint of heart. But the rugged road — originally cut by Wappo Indians centuries ago — will lead you to the Mount Veeder American Viticultural Area (AVA) and Mayacamas Vineyards, one of our most unique and historic wine properties.
The original winery, built in 1889, is still used. Fifty vineyard acres ranging from 1,800 to 2,200 feet elevation are swept with Pacific breezes, resulting in the lowest yields and longest growing season in all of Napa Valley. The wines are characterized by rich, ripe fruit balanced by firm acidity and tannin, plush in youth and capable of age. Inquire about cellar selections at mayacamas.com or ask your wine merchant for the current release:
Merlot, Mayacamas Vineyards, 2022: Luscious purple color with mouth-coating complexity of berries and bittersweet chocolate outlined by velvety tannin. It's an example of why Merlot became America’s top-selling red, with versatility to serve with dishes from grilled salmon to steak, or as an American vino da meditazione, an intellectually stimulating wine to accompany quiet contemplation. At fine wine shops, about $75. Distributed by Maverick Beverage Company (Elmhurst).
Back to the future
The romantic view of the wine industry pictures merry vineyard workers singing their happy songs. But hours spent in dank cellars, scaling icy peaks or spraying pesticides has reduced both vineyard workers’ life spans and the enthusiasm for vineyard work around the world. So, producers automated. In the 1970s, Champagne adopted the gyropalette for the painstaking riddling process. In 2014, Germany turned to the Steep Slope Harvester for vineyards up to 75% gradients. And this month, France authorized the use of drones to spray pesticides on hillside vineyards.
For a comic and cautionary tale on the advance of robotics and A.I., join me and City Lit Theater, 1020 W. Bryn Mawr Ave. in Chicago, for “R.U.R. (Rossum's Universal Robots).” Written by Karel Čapek, adapted by Bo List and directed by City Lit Executive Artistic Director Brian Pastor, it’s a science fiction classic that coined the term “robot” and was first performed in 1920. I portray Dr. Gall, the engineer responsible for the first generations of robots. City Lit, founded in 1979, is dedicated to the vitality and accessibility of literary imagination. The show runs May 2 through June 15. For more information and tickets, visit citylit.org.
• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.