Celebrate spring with Cava, Spain’s sparkling wine

What’s the difference between Cava and Champagne? In brief, about $50 per bottle. In detail, the difference between all wines amounts to four variables: grape, soil, climate and culture.

Cava is no longer only matured in the caves that give Spain’s sparkling wine its name. The painstaking winemaking dictated by the traditional method (the same as Champagne’s) is no longer accomplished by hand. (In fact, Spain mechanized the process, which Champagne and the world later adopted.)

But Cava remains central to the history, culture, economy and cuisine of northeast Spain’s Catalonia, the current World Region of Gastronomy, according to International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts, and Tourism.

Champagne’s permitted grapes include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the world’s most revered and expensive grapes. Cava grapes include Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada, rarely grown (or pronounced correctly) outside Spain.

Like Champagne, and unlike fruity Prosecco, Cava’s grapes express mineral aspects reminiscent of rain on rocks. Cava Rosado (Rosè) has meat-friendly firmness from the thick-skinned red Trepat grape, more so than Champagne’s thin-skinned Pinot Noir.

Champagne became the quaff of the rich and famous 300 years ago, transported by French marketing savvy and the Royal Navy throughout the British Empire. Cava began production in 1872, peaked in exports in the early 1900s, but was cut off at the knees in 1938 by the isolationist and tee-totaling dictator Francisco Franco, with his influence lasting far beyond his death in 1975. (To me, this is the irony of the “Saturday Night Live” catchphrase “Generalissimo Francisco Franco is still dead!”)

Regarding sweetness, all bubbly labeling is now standardized by the EU including: Brut, a delicately sweet 12 grams of sugar per liter (g/l) maximum; Extra Brut, a dryish 6 g/l maximum; Brut Nature, a bone-dry and not for everyone maximum 3 g/l.

While the Chicago area is a strong Cava market, many artisanal producers have been waylaid by ongoing distribution disarray. One of my favorites — Pares Balta — promises to reestablish Chicagoland presence soon. Otherwise, ask your merchant for recommendations or seek out these Cavas:

Brut, “Cordon Negro” Freixenet: Some wineries, like Freixenet ( FRESH-eh-NETTE ), produce boatloads of delicious, well-crafted wine because they are really good at it. The familiar black bottle Brut has aromas of white flowers and herbs, not unlike a spring morning, with clean flavors that invite sip after sip. It’s a simply refreshing quaff, but how much complexity do you need dangling your feet in a pool? (Widely available, under $15. Distributed by Southern Glazers.)

Brut Nature Reserva “Cupada No. 25,” Pere Mata: Pere Mata represents small production “grower cava” at its best. Twelve acres of organic vineyards in the heart of Cava country are hand-worked. All wines are matured at least two years on lees, adding round, bready complexity. Spanish labels combine legal terms, brand names and winespeak in dizzying complexity, so the labeling “No. 25” is a mystery to me. (At fine wine shops, under $20. Distributed by The Original Wine Company.)

Brut Rosat “Trepat,” Portell: One of Catalonia’s foremost cooperatives works 2,000 acres of diverse soil and climates, producing top quality for value in this Chicago-area favorite. The wine is pale pink with hints of cherry, refreshing finish with tannin enough for rich appetizers and sweetness enough for spicy dishes. (At fine wine shops, under $15, distributed by Acme Wine Company.)

Cava’s compatibility with food is on display in Barcelona’s xampanyeria — tiny bars, overflowing with tapas of cheese, cured meats, bocadillo con jamon (small ham sandwiches), gambas al ajillo, (prawns in garlic) and other specialties, all complemented by flowing Cava.

A unique Cava pairing to celebrate spring is calçotada, Catalan green onions that are blackened, stripped of their charred layer, dipped in romesco sauce and eaten as you would a long pizza slice, with your head tossed back. I’ll be experimenting with local spring onions and leeks when I break out my grill.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.