As NA wine improves, should its terminology get more sophisticated?
When you juice grapes, nobody makes a big deal about it. Introduce fermentation, though, and suddenly you’ve got serious stakes with encyclopedias, expensive courses and even entire degree programs dedicated to the study of one single, solitary beverage. With so many varieties and variables, wine is a world that demands your full attention as you swirl, sniff and sip.
Nonalcoholic wines, on the other hand, have never received such consideration. Long derided as cloyingly sweet and devoid of nuance, few people approached the category with the same sort of care or craftsmanship. But thanks to scientific advancements in manufacturing and the exploding scene for alcohol-free adult beverages, the market is now abundant with options that rival traditional wine in elegance and complexity. Is it time for us sober folk to start studying?
“It would be a terrible shame to transfer the worst habits of wine to nonalcoholic wine,” says Mindful Drinking Fest founder Derek Brown, who spent over a decade as a sommelier before pivoting into the zero-proof sphere. “We don’t need the over-the-top descriptions, confusing labeling, and a mentality that makes everyone feel like a permanent amateur. But we don’t need to dumb it all down, either.”
Creating nonalcoholic wine requires just as much skill and artistry as making its boozy counterparts: navigating the delicate balance of grape quality, climate and fermentation. But it adds the challenges of removing or omitting alcohol. Nonalcoholic wine makers blend science and creativity to produce something entirely new.
Dealcoholized wines start out as traditional wines, with alcohol removed through processes such as vacuum distillation or reverse osmosis. These products often highlight grape varieties, regions, or vintages, offering a link to traditional winemaking. Though pure alcohol is, on its own, flavorless, removing it can drastically change a wine.
“Alcohol is a very important structural component in wine, as it contributes to its body and texture,” says sober sommelier Abe Zarate. “Adding sugar to a dealcoholized wine can help mimic the texture and mouthfeel that alcohol usually provides.”
In naturally sweet and sparkling wines, adding a little extra sugar adds body without much in the way of distraction, resulting in dupes convincing enough to trick you. However, in the realm of reds and bone-dry whites, the illusion isn’t quite as compelling. But just because a nonalcoholic wine isn’t a perfect mimic doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not massively enjoyable.
“We should first and foremost recognize only alcohol is alcohol, and they aren’t going to taste the exact same,” says Brown. “A corollary is we don’t compare red wines to white wines. They’re both wine, but exist in two discrete categories, and very rarely do they share the same characteristics.”
Instead of taking the apples-to-oranges route when discussing dealcoholized wines, we should focus on what they, pardon the pun, bring to the table: artistry, creativity and the ability to connect people in meaningful ways. The inclusivity of nonalcoholic wine allows everyone — whether they drink alcohol or not — to join in rituals like toasts as well as partake in pairing wine with a meal.
“We need to shift the focus from what nonalcoholic wines lack to what they offer,” says Zarate. “Just like their alcoholic counterparts, they provide a means for connection. Through that lens, you are not missing out on anything.”
Nonalcoholic wine is inclusive by nature — since everyone can drink it — and the vocabulary we use to discuss it should match. These wines brim with unique characteristics a sharp palate can identify, and keeping our descriptions comprehensible ensures everyone feels smart enough to sip.
“The same tasting terms can apply, because they are both wine,” says Brown. “But I prefer to use natural language. Using fruit terms like cherries or apples doesn’t seem obscure or overly complicated. Saying ‘tart’ instead of ‘tartaric acid,’ and ‘place’ instead of ‘terroir’ might make it easier for consumers to navigate.”
If you have a preexisting wine vocabulary, you should feel confident in using it to describe NA wines. The alcohol might be gone, and the body may be a little thinner, but plenty of the other characteristics — body, dryness, fruitiness and other tasting notes — are still there, ready for identification. Are you tasting slate? Mushrooms? Forest floor? Leather? Is there a hint of vanilla or black pepper? Focus on what’s there, not what’s absent. However, if you’ve never been one to agonize over the finer details of wine, there’s no reason to start now. Be casual, be appreciative and, most importantly, be yourself. No one should ever feel like they’re underqualified to drink something delicious.
NA wine reminds us that great beverages aren’t solely about alcohol. They’re about connection. Sitting down to share a meal or raise a glass is a deeply human experience that brings us together. By embracing NA wines on their own terms, and using terms everyone can understand, we create more opportunities for inclusion and community.
Nonalcoholic wine is not a lesser version of traditional wine; it’s a category with its own stories, challenges, and triumphs. By celebrating it for what it is, we open the door to a richer, more inclusive wine culture — one where everyone has a place at the table.