Good Wine: Family values create exemplary quality at Chile’s Los Vascos

Wine geeks speak the name “Lafite” with a devotion akin to New York Knicks fans discussing center-court seats at Madison Square Garden. Since the Rothschild family’s purchase in 1868, Château Lafite Rothschild has produced Cabernet-Sauvignon-based wine in France’s Bordeaux region that connoisseurs vie to purchase at bottle prices of $600 and up. Way up.

But the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR) also produces top-quality wines priced for you and me, along with Chile’s Los Vascos. The original Colchagua Valley wines may already be favorites in your household, offering Chardonnay (current vintage 2023), Sauvignon Blanc (2023) and Cabernet Sauvignon (2021) of exemplary quality for about $12 per bottle. The Rosè was new to me:

Rosè, Los Vascos 2024: Delicate and bone dry with strawberry flavors outlined by zesty acidity. Serve as an aperitif, with light appetizers (such as cured meats) and seafood or poultry. Perfect for turkey leftovers (sandwiches, chili) and a frosè for a festivity.

Because bottles may languish on grocery shelves, I recommend purchasing the line at a reputable wine shop or chain in vintages no older than those above.

In 1988, fifth-generation Baron Éric planted Los Vascos in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, applying the Rothschilds’ legendary wine-growing prowess and operating capital to Chile’s soil, climate and traditions. His imprimatur established Colchagua internationally as one of the world’s great wine-growing regions.

Now, DBR is reaching beyond its boundaries and expertise with Primo Los Vascos.

“In Chile, from the Andes to the ocean is never more than 100 miles,” says Los Vascos Estate Manager Phillipe Rolet. “The north is as green as the Rhine, but other regions are drier than Death Valley.” And while Los Vascos primarily focuses on Bordeaux grapes, Chile commercially produces 130 varieties.

So, in 2020, with sixth-generation Saskia at the helm, DBR launched a collaboration with wine-growing families throughout Chile, sharing French and Chilean traditions and techniques. Of 24 semifinalist wines, three were chosen for bottling, my favorites being:

Semillon, Primo Los Vascos, 2022: Texturous on the palate with pleasing complexity of pear and citrus flavors and mouthwatering acidity. The wine benefits from the Azua family’s vineyards in the Apalta region: dry-farmed (no irrigation), organic, some vines dating from 1930, planted on mountain slopes to yield balanced ripeness and concentration. 400 cases produced. With richness and acidity, it’s the wine for Chile’s and Chicago’s wealth of seafood, including hamachi crudo, served by Chicago’s RPM Steak.

Cinsault, Primo Los Vascos, 2022: The Rodriguez Itasca vineyard is 15 miles from the frigid Pacific Ocean, with vines planted to hug 20-degree slopes to retain heat. Vines must drive roots 24 feet into the granite hills for water. 400 cases produced. While Cinsault is generally a rough-and-tumble blending grape, this gentle red is soft and lively, with flavors of red fruits accented with brown spice. I found tannins silky enough for RPM’s shredded kale with bacon salad, along with roast chicken with truffle jus. Consider it for light red meats or a holiday turkey.

Primo Los Vascos arrives in the Chicago area in December, distributed by RNDC (Niles), at about $45 per bottle. Another welcome introduction to me is the Cromas line, my favorite being:

Cabernet Franc “Gran Reserva,” Cromas Los Vascos, 2021: Plush and elegant, with flavors of ripe berries, herbs and a dusting of mocha from judicious oak maturation. Cromas (in Greek meaning colors) celebrates Nature’s rainbow of colors, expressed in wine through soil and climate. The wine’s complexity and fine-grained tannin make it the choice for red meats and rich poultry, from simple grills to meaty curries, classic Poulet aux fine herbes (French herbed chicken) to the all-American turkey. About $25 at wine shops.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of the Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.