Discover there is ‘More than Malbec’ from Argentina

Every business owner understands the mixed blessing of one mega brand. After thrilling growth and a prosperous plateau, sales are haunted by competition, rising expenses and changes in the marketplace — the international pandemic, for instance. Even Coca-Cola was forced to bolster Coke, arguably the most recognized brand in the known universe, with New Coke. A look at current beverage shelves tells you it didn’t go well.

Winegrowers of Argentina feel your pain. In the 1990s, Argentina launched Malbec — a grape initially yanked from French vineyards a century before — into superstardom, delighting international wine lovers with plump fruit, pleasing tannin and low cost. Within two decades, annual exports grew from negligible to nearly $800 million, according to Wine Industry Advisor, with a Gold Rush-like stampede on planting, from 16,500 hectares to 40,000 hectares.

Now, Argentine wine sales are skidding, beset by an internal economic crisis, rocketing costs, the aftershock of an international pandemic and competition, including a whole lot of mediocre Malbec.

So, winegrowers are pivoting. “Argentina grows 150 grapes,” reports Karim Mussi of Altocedro vineyards. “With domestic wine consumption as high as 90 liters per person, we never worried about exporting them. We had time for our daily naps.” (Note: U.S. wine consumption is currently about 10 liters per person.)

Mussi isn’t napping anymore. He and fellow growers represented by importer Vino del Sol are crisscrossing the U.S. to present “More than Malbec” with tastings of Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet franc, pinot noir, Bonarda, Tempranillo, chardonnay and more.

Why so many grapes? It’s all about terroir, the unique relationship between soil and climate, and in Argentina, terroir is all about the Andes. Lofty altitude ripens grapes in brilliant sunshine; broad day-to-night temperature shift maintains acidity; rocky soil concentrates flavor. The Andes even supply water to the desert vineyards through snowmelt channeled to farms by canals originally dug by Indigenous peoples. With its 3,000 length, Argentina offers advantageous terroir to any grape a winegrower dreams of planting.

Translating dreams into sales is the tricky bit. Local wine distributors are cautious about diverting time, money and warehouse space away from Malbec’s sales locomotive, and of the featured wines I preferred, only half are currently available in Chicagoland.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of the Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Altocedro 2021: Bright red, bursting with black berry flavors. The wine is texturous and chewey, with very firm tannin wrapped in lush fruit. Suggested retail price, $30, but currently out of stock.

Note: As in the U.S., “reserva” is a marketing term with no legal definition.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Wapisa 2020: Supple, with ripe berry and plum flavors, herbal and tobacco accents and pleasing, refreshing tannin. Available at boutiques, including Bottle Shop Wilmette, Wine Goddess Evanston and Gold Eagle Libertyville, about $25.

Cabernet franc Reserva, Lamadrid, 2020: Ripe and gentle on the palate, with round fruit flavor and brown spice accents. Available at boutiques, including Bottle Shop Wilmette and Gold Eagle Libertyville, under $20.

For a nation whose diet and social life revolves around weekly family barbecues, the virtues of wine paired with vacío (flank steak), entraña (skirt steak), asado de tira (short ribs), chorizo (sausage) and more carnivorous delights stimulated spirited commentary. But my question, “What about for vegetarians?” met a response similar to asking a Chicagoan about pineapple pizza, i.e., “Huh?”

Then, all eyes turned to the lone vegetarian in attendance, who bravely recommended provoleta (grilled provolone) and empanadas (fried turnovers) stuffed with peppers, mushrooms, carrots, and even empanadas de Misia Manuelita (a non-sweet pear version), all delicious to pair with:

Chardonnay “Alta Collection,” Tapiz 2021: Fresh and pretty aromas introduce a fruit bowl of apple and citrus flavor, with a pinch of brown spice and mouthwatering acidity. Under $20, online at finding.wine Online Purchase Link

To explore “More than Malbec” from Argentina, ask your wine merchant for these and other wines imported by Vina del Sol, in Chicagoland distributed by Maverick (Bensenville) and Fine Vines (Melrose Park).