Red Shrimp Enchiladas

For the enchiladas

2 dried mulato chiles (dried poblanos; may substitute ancho chiles)

2 dried guajillo chiles (see note)

Boiling water

¼ white onion

2 cloves garlic

6 ounces (¾ cup) no-salt-added, canned diced tomatoes and their juices

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Kosher salt

Canola oil or rice bran oil, for the pan

6 to 8 good-quality soft corn tortillas

For the filling

1 white onion

2 cloves garlic

1 jalapeño pepper

¼ cup rice bran or canola oil

Kosher salt

2 cups no-salt-added, canned tomatoes and their juices

1 pound medium-to-large peeled, deveined raw shrimp

For the enchiladas: Stem and seed the chiles. Place in a medium heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak for about 20 minutes, until softened.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Finely chop the onion and garlic. Stem and seed the jalapeño, then cut into small dice.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onion, garlic and jalapeño, stirring to coat. Season lightly with salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, until softened, then stir in the tomatoes and their juices. Once the mixture begins bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, so some of the liquid reduces.

Coarsely chop the shrimp, then season them lightly with salt. Add to the skillet and use a large wooden spoon to mash some of them. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just until evenly opaque. Turn off the heat.

Drain the chiles, reserving ¼ cup of their soaking water. Tear the chiles and place them in a food processor. Chop the onion and garlic, adding those ingredients to the chiles as you work. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the oregano, cumin and a pinch of salt; puree until smooth, adding some of the reserved soaking water, as needed. The yield is about 2 cups. Pour into a wide, shallow bowl.

Heat a few teaspoons of oil on a griddle or in a large, separate skillet over medium-high heat.

Working in batches, coat both sides of each tortilla in the red sauce on the plate, then transfer to the skillet and fry for about 30 seconds. Use tongs to turn it over, then cook on the second side for about 30 seconds. Transfer to individual plates (preferably warmed).

Fill a red tortilla with ½ to ¾ cup of the shrimp filling, depending on how many you're serving. Fold the tortilla over, like a taco, or roll it loosely. Repeat to use all the tortillas and filling. You may have some sauce left over, which can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. Stir well before using.

Serve warm or at room temperature with crema or sour cream, crumbled queso fresco, shaved iceberg lettuce and chopped cilantro as garnishes.

Note: The dried chiles are available at Latin markets, and on the international aisle and in the produce department of some larger supermarkets.

Serves 4 to 6

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6, using half the sauce): 300 calories, 18 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 13 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Adapted from "Nopalito: A Mexican Kitchen," by Gonzalo Guzman with Stacy Adimando (Penguin/Random House, 2017).