Asparagus with Morels and Tarragon

2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided

2 large shallots, finely chopped

¼

pound fresh morels, cleaned and halved lengthwise if large (see note)

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon, divided

½

teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt, plus more if needed

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Have a large bowl of ice water ready. In a large saute pan with 3 inches of boiling, salted water, add the asparagus. Cook until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the asparagus to the bowl of ice water. Once cool, transfer the asparagus to a plate lined with paper towels.

Empty the saute pan and wipe dry. Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 2-4 minutes. Add the morels and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the asparagus, 1 tablespoon of the tarragon, the salt, and the remaining tablespoon of butter and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Garnish with the remaining tablespoon of chopped tarragon. Serve immediately.

Serves six.

Cook's note: If you can't find fresh morels or other exotic mushrooms, this recipe works wonderfully well with rehydrated dried morels, or a combination of various dried mushrooms.

Kristen Lee-Charlson/Edible Missoula, Mont. from "Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods (2010 Wiley)