Quick Cinnamon Rolls With Buttermilk Icing

Vegetable oil spray

Filling

1/3 cup packed (21/3 ounces) dark brown sugar

1/3 cup (21/3 ounces) granulated sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon salt

Dough

21/2 cups (121/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the work surface

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

11/4 cups buttermilk

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, divided

Icing

2 tablespoons light cream cheese, softened

2 tablespoons buttermilk

3/4 cup (3 ounces) confectioners' sugar

Adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees. Spray an 8-inch-square baking pan and a wire rack with the vegetable oil spray; set aside.

For the filling: Mix all the ingredients together; set aside.

For the dough: Whisk the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl.

In a separate bowl, whisk the buttermilk and 2 tablespoons of the melted butter together. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture with a wooden spoon until the liquid is absorbed (the dough will look very shaggy), about 30 seconds. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead until just smooth and no longer shaggy, about 30 seconds.

Pat the dough with your hands into a 12-by-9-inch rectangle. Brush the dough with the remaining tablespoon of melted butter. Sprinkle evenly with the filling, leaving a 1/2-inch border of plain dough around the edges. Press the filling firmly into the dough.

Using a bench scraper or metal spatula, loosen the dough from the work surface. Starting at the long side, roll the dough, pressing lightly, to form a tight log. Pinch the seam to seal. Roll the log seam-side down and slice it evenly into 9 pieces with dental floss. With your hand, slightly flatten each piece of dough to seal the open edges and keep the filling in place.

Arrange the rolls in the prepared baking dish (3 rows of 3 rolls). Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for about 12 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the edges of the rolls are golden brown, 12-14 minutes longer.

Use an offset metal spatula to loosen the rolls from the pan. Wearing oven mitts, place a large plate over the pan and invert the rolls onto the plate. Place a greased wire rack over the plate and flip the rolls onto the rack. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes before icing.

For the icing: While the rolls cool, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper (for easy cleanup). Set the rack of cooling rolls over the baking sheet.

Whisk the cream cheese and buttermilk together in a large nonreactive 1 bowl until thick and smooth (the mixture will look like cottage cheese at first). Sift the confectioners' sugar over the mixture; whisk until a smooth glaze forms, about 30 seconds. Spoon the glaze evenly over the rolls.

Serves nine.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving: 280 calories, 4.5 g fat (3.5 g saturated), 55 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 6 g protein, 15 mg cholesterol, 340 mg sodium.

"The Best Light Recipe" by the Editors of Cook's Illustrated (2006 America's Test Kitchen)