Parmesan Fondue With Pesto

1 pound cream cheese (see note)

2 cups light cream or half-and-half

1½ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 6 ounces)

Dash of salt

Dash of cayenne pepper

⅓ cup basil pesto, purchased or homemade

Melt the cream cheese in the top of a double boiler or a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Gradually stir in the light cream until smooth and heated through. Add the Parmesan and stir until the cheese melts and thickens the fondue. Season with the salt and cayenne.

Transfer the mixture to a fondue pot, preferably ceramic or enameled cast iron. Drop teaspoons of pesto over the top; then use a skewer or a knife to swirl the pesto attractively over the surface. Regulate the heat under the pot, if possible, so that the cheese fondue remains warm, not hot. Serve this rich fondue with cubes of crusty artisanal bread and crisp raw vegetables.

Makes 4 cups; 10 to 12 appetizer servings.

Cook's notes: For the creamiest results, purchase natural cream cheese without any added gum arabic or other stabilizers. It's sold in bulk in the deli section of the supermarket. And for best flavor, use a top-quality imported Parmesan cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano.

"Great Party Fondues" by Peggy Fallon (2008 Wiley, $16.95)