Puff Puff Doughnuts

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 package (2¼ teaspoon) instant or active dry yeast

½ cup granulated sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup hot water (120 to 130 degrees), or as needed

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Granulated sugar for coating (about 1 cup)

To make the dough: In a large bowl stir together the flour, yeast, sugar, salt and nutmeg. Add 1 cup hot water and stir with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes to make a smooth, thick batter; gradually add more hot water as necessary. (This is a very wet dough, not one that you can knead.) Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough rise at room temperature until it has almost tripled in bulk and is full of bubbles, about 1½ hours.

To cook: Pour about 3 inches of oil into a large heavy pot and attach a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the pot or use a digital thermometer. Bring the oil to between 360 and 370 degrees over medium-high heat. Line a large baking sheet with several layers of paper towels. Put the sugar for coating in a small bowl.

Set a bowl of cool water near the bowl of risen dough. Dip your hand into the water, pinch off a walnut-sized piece of dough and carefully add it to the oil. Working rapidly, form 7 more puffs this way. Cook 5-8 minutes, or until the puffs are well browned and cooked through. Cut into one to make sure. Use a long-tined meat fork to turn and spin the puffs in the oil once they've puffed and have begun to brown on one side; keep the balls of dough rotating rapidly.

When the balls are evenly browned and cooked, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the paper towels to drain. Put the balls into the bowl of sugar and roll them about to coat with sugar. Set them on a baking sheet to cool completely.

Shape and cook the remaining dough making sure to monitor the temperature of the oil so it doesn't get too hot or too cool. Serve as soon as possible.

Makes 40 to 48 puffs.

Cook's note: These are puffy, chewy, spicy and sweet. Leftovers can be refrigerated up to 1 day and then reheated briefly in a microwave.

Nutrition values per puff: 45 calories, 1 g fat (0 saturated), 8 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 1 g protein, 0 cholesterol, 25 mg sodium.

"A Baker's Odyssey" by Greg Patent (2007 John Wiley & Sons, Inc., $34.95)