Restaurant sampler

Here is a list of restaurants recently reviewed in the Daily Herald. We do not review restaurants we cannot recommend.

Algerian

ICOSIUM KAFE, 5200 N. Clark St., Chicago. (773) 271-5233. Named for the land now known as Algeria, Icosium Kafe serves up Algerian-style crepes and salads to which diners can add chicken or turkey breast, smoked salmon, turkey-ham-scrambled eggs, escargot beef sausage or merguez (a mildly spicy Algerian lamb sausage). Highlights include the cheka chouka, a mixture of goat cheese, roasted peppers, caramelized onion, roasted garlic, fresh tomatoes, baby spinach and a sprinkling of pine nuts with a side of zesty Tunisian red pepper paste, and assorted breakfast crepes, served all day, filled with cream cheese and smoked salmon, ham and cheese and pleasantly creamy scrambled eggs. Crepes and salads range from $4.50 to $8.50. Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Friday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 5-11-07) -- Leah Zeldes

American

ALINEA, 1723 N. Halsted St., Chicago. (312) 867-0110. This year, the James Beard Foundation honored Alinea executive chef/partner Grant Achatz -- who strips ingredients down to their essentials and then re-imagines them -- as the Great Lakes region's best chef. Late last year Gourmet magazine honored his restaurant, a temple of progressive gastronomy, as the United States' top restaurant. Both honors are well deserved. Don't let the number daunt you. The courses are intense, singular bites that include vegetable and fish courses then proceed to sweet items, followed by meatier dishes such as Kobe beef and spare ribs, followed by dessert plates all of which can be accompanied by a selection from Alinea's 800 bottle wine cellar. Twelve course tasting menu $135; 24 course menu $195; wine pairings additional $90 to $140. Hours: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesday to Friday; 5 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 9-7-07) -- Deborah Pankey

BACCHUS NIBBLES, 20817 N. Quentin Road, Kildeer. (847) 438-3212. Chef Leobardo Servin serves up exciting, comprehensive and reasonably priced fare featuring steaks, chops, salmon and kebabs along with continental favorites like coq au vin, coconut shrimp, chicken teriyaki and chicken Alfredo. Highlights include: crab cakes; a generous ratatouille plate and excellent duck tenderloin sliced into nuggets and rolled in ground almonds and a bit of coconut, fried to perfection and served with peanut sauce among other items. Entrees range from $9.50 to $21.95. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 5-25-07) -- D.P.

CHARLIE'S CHARHOUSE, 1180 W. Devon Ave., Elk Grove Village. (847) 923-5000. This all-American, family friendly steakhouse serves generously portioned, affordable fare. Highlights include shrimp de Jonghe; stuffed mushrooms filled with nicely spiced ground pork; Grecian chicken with a smoky, crispy, lemony skin served with creamy mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli and carrots; a tender steak filet with sautéed mushrooms, a velvety béarnaise sauce and rice pilaf among others. Entrees range from $7.45 to $28.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 5-11-07) -- Jennifer Olvera

CORDIS BROTHERS SUPPER CLUB, 1625 W. Irving Park Road, Chicago. (773) 935-1000. Talk about old school. The supper clubs that arose during the 1930s were swanky, sultry venues that combined fine dining and entertainment. Cordis maintains the tradition and puts a twist on it, substituting DJs for saloon singers. Menu highlights include: tasty carpaccio finished with tangy Parmigiano-Reggiano; garlicky plump shrimp Charlotte; slow-cooked prime rib (delicious but small for its price) with requisite creamy horseradish sauce; and affordable and tender baby back ribs served with a sweet, zingy sauce among other items. Entrees range from $13 to $35. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday. Late-night menu from 10 p.m. to midnight Monday to Thursday and from 10:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-10-07) -- J.O.

THE GAGE, 24 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago. (312) 372-4243. A classy restaurant and bar set in an historic building across from Millennium Park, The Gage is an excellent but pricey restaurant with a menu that runs from the familiar to the exotic. Highlights include Anglo-Irish pub fare like a Scotch egg (a hard-cooked egg encased in mild sausage) served with greens and grainy mustard; nicely al dente risotto heavily laced with goat cheese with licoricey basil-marinated escargot; "locally crafted sausages" consisting of savory, encased meats; and moist and tender roasted Amish chicken served over a layer of lightly cooked green beans among other items. Entrees range from $10 to $38. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Friday; 4 p.m. to midnight Saturday; brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; bar open until midnight Sundays, 2 a.m. Monday to Friday and 3 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 7-20-07) -- L.Z.

HOP HAUS, 646 N. Franklin St., Chicago. (312) 280-8832. The menu isn't huge, not compared to the craft beer selection, but this River North nightspot has some great selections. They include: jalapeno ravioli drizzled with pepper-cream sauce; hefty onion rings; excellent blue cheese, tomato and bacon-topped French fries; chili burgers topped with sharp cheddar cheese and Texas chili; grilled lamb patty finished with feta, cucumber salad and kalamata-feta sauce; a ground turkey burger topped with white cheddar, green beans and cranberry sauce; and the vegan burger topped with sauteed mushrooms, sliced avocado and vegan Italian dressing among other items. Entrees range from $8.95 to $12.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 a.m. Sunday to Friday; 11 a.m. to 5 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 5-18-07) -- J.O.

HUNTER'S, 305 W. Main St., St. Charles. (630) 444-1835. Besides being downright chummy, Hunter's serves up cuts of beef that would rival those at a top-tier Chicago steakhouse. Highlights include: a nicely satisfying veal osso buco; ravioli filled with tender pulled meat in a savory brown butter sauce; tender, well-marbled Kobe sirloin; chicken Marsala with risotto and pappardelle; barramundi with soy-miso sauce; and roasted duck breast with mandarin orange sauce and roasted potatoes among other items. Entrees range from $15 to $39. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-24-07) -- J.O.

JOHNNY ROCKETS, 2835 Showplace Drive, Suite 115, Naperville. (630) 428-8525. This national chain restaurant is for people who like children, loud places, dancing servers, blaring music, burgers and the 1950s diner experience. Highlights include: the smokehouse burger topped with zippy Tillamook cheddar cheese, crunchy bacon, onion rings and a savory barbecue ranch sauce and the Original topped with the usual fare and tasty onion rings. Other menu items include a patty melt with grilled onions and American and cheddar cheeses on grilled rye; Philly cheese steak; and tuna melt among other items. Entrees range from $3.99 to $6.59. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 4-20-07) -- J.O.

KONA GRILL, Oak Brook Promenade, 3051 Butterfield Road, Oak Brook. (630) 515-8395. Equal parts bar, sushi bar and dining spot, this chain restaurant serves up outlandishly large portions of Pacific-inspired food. Highlights include the sweet Maui onion rings served with spicy-sweet, pineapple-chipotle ketchup; specialty maki rolls made of tuna, including cream cheese and seeded jalapeno wrapped in soy paper, and something called The Wave featuring finely diced spicy tuna, tempura shrimp, avocado and cucumber in soy paper; lemongrass-crusted halibut with crunchy, golden brown breading; pan-seared ahi with sweet chili sauce; meatloaf made from Italian sausage and andouille meat with earthy mushroom ragout, and pad Thai noodles served in a black bean-chili sauce among other items. Entrees range from $10.95 to $29.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-1-07) -- J.O.

MCCARTHY'S, 506 Hawthorn Center, Vernon Hills. (847) 367-4704. The menu at this Irish-American pub features a substantial list of starters available in portions meant for sharing, a variety of sandwiches, including numerous burgers along with plate-filling entrees ranging from curried shrimp to Guinness pot roast, in addition to pastas, steaks and fish. One of the highlights is the corned beef and cabbage offered as an all-you-can-eat special on Sundays. Entrees range from $6.99 to $16.99. Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; bar menu available one hour later. Bar open until 1 a.m. Sunday to Thursday and 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-22-07) -- L.Z.

MIKE DITKA'S, 2 Mid-America Plaza, Suite 100, Oakbrook Terrace. (630) 572-2200. Ditka and company score a touchdown with this traditional steak and seafood restaurant, which seems more like an informal supper club than a sports bar, and is less expensive than its urban counterparts. Highlights include the pot roast nachos appetizer with richly flavored pot roast topped with melted cheddar, sour cream, jalapenos, tomatoes and scallions; sweet and mellow French onion soup; buttery Hawaiian bigeye tuna; 16-ounce veal parmesan chop; and straightforward sides including mashed potatoes, steamed asparagus and hash browns among other items. Entrees range from $11.95 to $49.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday (with brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-10-07) -- Laura Bianchi

MONKEY DISH BAR GRILL, 5572 Grand Ave., Gurnee. (847) 599-8888. This charming eatery takes its name from the expression describing small bowls used for side dishes. The menu features creative American cuisine including particularly creamy artichoke cheese dip; perfectly grilled sesame chicken skewers; sliders that pack a lot of flavor in a small package; a well-seasoned skirt steak smothered in mushrooms, onions and peppers; and a honey lime roast chicken with a citrus marinade that gave the moist chicken a distinctive flavor among other items. Entrees and sandwiches range from $8.25 to $25.99. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to midnight Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 3 to 11 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 7-27-07) -- Lisa Friedman MinerNOSH, 211 James St., Geneva. (630) 845-1570. Chef David Nelson serves up familiar breakfast fare with a twist (and some Latin infusion) at this cute-cool breakfast nook. Highlights include: de puerco (a molded mound of scrambled eggs, bacon, chorizo, prosciutto, garlic and caramelized onions drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction); one-eyed Susan (a grilled cheese sandwich with an egg center); a Costa Rican breakfast consisting of two fried eggs atop cheesy pink beans with jicama slaw and a cheesy tortilla; chocolate-chip hotcakes with toasted almonds, caramel sauce and nougat whipped cream; and hot chocolate French toast among other items. Entrees range from $5.95 to $12.95. Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Friday to Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-8-07) -- J.O.PILOT PETE'S, 905 W. Irving Park Road, Schaumburg at the Schaumburg Regional Airport. (847) 891-5100. This tropical-themed restaurant serves generously portioned, well-priced fare and offers views of the planes taking off and landing at the Schaumburg airport. Highlights include tasty fried wonton wraps drizzled with prosciutto cream sauce, asiago and mozzarella cheese; a house salad brightened with mango-lime vinaigrette dressing; Caribbean sauced ribs; dry-aged sirloin topped with bernaise sauce; and the half-pound sirloin burger with blue cheese among other items. Sandwiches and entrees range from $6.95 to $18.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-29-07) -- D.P.TRAVELERS CAF#201; AND ICE CREAM DEPOT, 20 N. Cass Ave., Westmont. (630) 971-2033. The grab-and-go options have substance at this caf#233; that also allows diners to settle down for a home-cooked meal. The seasonal menu features sandwiches, freshly baked goods, desserts and cool, refreshing drinks. Highlights include: an egg and cheese sandwich on a cheddar scone; marmalade and cream cheese-stuffed French toast; sweet Smithfield ham sandwich complemented by a tangy cherry-Dijon mustard; roast beef on Asiago bread with garlic-horseradish mayo; hot Austrian sausage served on Vienna bread; and a simple veggie-specked corkscrew pasta salad among other items. Entrees range from $2.90 to $6.90. Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 7-20-07) -- J.O. WESTMONT BRAT HOUSE, 18 N. Cass Ave., Westmont. (630) 437-5415. There's nothing fussy about this low-key establishment featuring pub grub with a German accent. Highlights include: hot, chewy soft pretzels served with cheese and spicy mustard; a brat and sausage appetizer sampler served with German mustard and dark rye; properly charred brats and sausages (including the divine beer brat and the cheese brat) served on a fluffy bun with sweet grilled onions, tangy kraut and spicy mustard; a black forest sandwich with roast beef, Thousand Island dressing, bacon, Swiss and cheddar on dark rye; golden-fried, thinly pounded pork schnitzel atop gravy-soused spaetzle with crunchy potato pancakes among other items. Entrees range from $6.49 to $12.99. Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 7 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 7-6-07) -- J.O.AsianKANOK, 3422 N. Broadway, Chicago. (773) 529-2525. This contemporary cool storefront features a diverse menu making it a good spot for sushi and nonsushi lovers. Highlights include the crispy, sesame-specked calamari with Thai-inspired tomato dip; crab Rangoon bursting with cream cheese, celery, carrot and crab; Vietnamese salad rolls packed with rice noodles; a dizzying array of noodle dishes including the Thai spicy spaghetti kee mao with chicken, mushrooms, bell peppers, carrots, chilies, green onions, tomato and cilantro in a scorching sauce; tropical maki with tuna, yellowtail, cilantro, cucumber, avocado, green onion and jalapeno topped with crispy tempura crumbs, wasabi mayo and a spicy sauce; a sushi boat that serves six and includes sashimi, nigiri and five maki; succulent, honey-walnut shrimp; and the satisfying spiced Korean barbecue beef among other items. Entrees range from $6.50 to $17. Hours: 4 to 11 p.m. Monday to Friday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-15-07) -- J.O.East AfricanMASALA YANGU, Jefferson Hill Shops, 43 E. Jefferson Ave., Naperville. (630) 922-9999. East African cuisine is colorful, aggressively seasoned (spicy but not burning) and boasts a multitude of flavors. Masala Yangu's menu includes such tasty dishes as: sambusa (ground beef pastries flecked with cilantro, onions and chilis and similar to an Indian samosa); spicy, pan-fried turkey kebabs; flavorful, fall-apart caramelized peppered chicken; diced eggplant saut#233;ed with curry leaves and hunks of potatoes and a dish of slow-cooked pigeon peas in sweet-savory coconut curry sauce; and pan-seared whitefish in cassava leaves and curry sauce among other items. Entrees range from $13 to $17. Hours: 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday and Wednesday; 5:30 to 10 p.m. Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 7-13-07) -- J.O.FrenchBISTRO MONET, 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn. (630) 469-4002. With predecessors Les Deux Autre and Les Deux Gros, newcomer Bistro Monet chef-owner Michel Saragueta has big shoes to fill. And he's up to the challenge. Highlights include: a luxurious, full-flavored short rib ravioli finished in a wild-mushroom Madeira cream sauce; chicken liver mousse perfectly seasoned and served with toast points, two mustards and cornichons; lobster bisque garnished with crabmeat; lightly breaded pork tenderloin served atop velvety whipped sweet potatoes; a steak and shrimp dish served with a trio of sauces; phyllo wrapped, pan-seared salmon served with Chablis beurre blanc; and duck confit strudel with wild mushroom and peppercorn demi glace among other items. Entrees range from $9 to $16. Hours: 5 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 4-20-07) -- J.O.MAIJEAN, 30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills. (630) 794-8900. This bistro is especially effective when it deviates from the norm with seasonally inspired specials and traditional fare served with a twist. Highlights included: crispy veal sweetbreads; vibrantly hued, out-of-this-world tomato soup; seasonal halibut nestled atop warm orzo salad; perfectly prepared hanger steak and grilled pork tenderloin served with peach sauce and sweet potato custard among other items. Entrees range from $18 to $28. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-3-07) -- J.O.IndianPARADISE, 721 W. Golf Road, Hoffman Estates. (847) 755-9955. If you like meat with heat (but without the fieriness of some Indian cuisines), this spacious Indian and Pakistani restaurant (which uses ingredients prepared according to Muslim dietary restrictions) is for you. The few vegetarian dishes consist of variations on lentils, aloo palak (a Punjabi specialty of potatoes and spinach), tandoori vegetables and veggie biryani (a rice dish). Highlights include: beef samosas (triangles of thin, flaky phyllo wrapped around nicely seasoned ground meat and deep-fried); a combination platter that includes tandoori chicken, seekh kebab (marinated beef), tandoori fish (mahi-mahi) and lamb kebab; zesty and moist boneless chicken stir-fried with green chilies, onions, tomato, ginger, cilantro and spices; a mildly spiced porridge of beef, wheat lentils and lots of clarified butter; excellent naan (a traditional Indian yeasted flatbread); and onion kulcha (a similar bread with an onion filling) among other items. Entrees range from $6.95 to $15.95. Hours: 3 to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 3 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 4 to 11 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 6-15-07) -- L.Z.ItalianAMORE MIO, 1457 Palatine Road, Hoffman Estates. (847) 358-5506. The menu features traditional Italian-American dishes like veal and chicken marsala and meat lasagna along with contemporary dishes like homemade squid ink ravioli stuffed with seafood and vegetables. The specials are where Amore Mio shines. Highlights include the strawberry salad featuring a tantalizing mixture of sweet fruit, pecans and tangy flakes of parmesan on mixed greens; flavorful, made-from-scratch ravioli with ground veal and porcini mushrooms in vodka tomato cream sauce; rich and spicy penne machinato with ground Italian sausage and peppers; and the classic chicken parmesan topped with mozzarella and a wonderful housemade marinara among other items. Entrees range from $8.95 to $19.95. Hours: 4 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 7-6-07) -- L.B.ANTEPRIMA, 5316 N. Clark St., Chicago. (773) 506-9990. People began buzzing about this friendly Andersonville restaurant months ago and with good reason. The menu consists of well-thought, well-prepared and affordable fare that includes a tangy, dandelion green tart as a complimentary starter. Other highlights include a salumi platter with prosciutto, cherry moustarda and grilled polenta with spicy rapini; an antipasto platter worth raving about; oversized, bone-in pork chop accompanied by fennel and roasted potato gratin with parmesan crisps; tender tagliatelle with a flavorful prosciutto "ragu" with finely ground veal and pork; and orechiette with housemade lamb sausage among other items. Entrees range from $15 to $24. Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-3-07) -- J.O.BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE, The Shops on Butterfield, 330 Yorktown Center, Lombard. (630) 424-1515. Part of an Ohio-based chain, this crowd-pleaser serves gussied-up Northern Italian fare in a swanky setting. Unlike many of the red-sauced Italian spots, this restaurant features plenty of lighter prepared fare, including thinly sliced blackened tuna caponata and grilled sliced beef tenderloin infused with rosemary. Other highlights include: innovative flatbreads like grilled chicken and mushroom with Fontina and Boursin cheeses; garganelli carbonara with wood-grilled chicken; rack of roasted lamb with Marsala sauce; lightly breaded veal Milanese; a prosciutto and fontina-stuffed chicken; Mediterranean penne with mushrooms, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and feta; and mushroom ravioli in creamy Alfredo sauce among other items. Entrees range from $12.95 to $27.50. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-24-07) -- J.O.ROSEBUD OLD WORLD ITALIAN, 1370 Bank Drive, Schaumburg. (847) 240-1414. Everybody leaves this restaurant with a doggie bag of classic Italian-American dishes. Part of a mini-chain consisting of half a dozen local offshoots that originated 30 years ago on Chicago's Taylor Street with the Rosebud Restaurant, this latest incarnation serves up huge portions of Italian favorites (sharing is encouraged) in a bustling, noisy atmosphere. Highlights include: an exemplary fish salad combining plump shrimp, baby octopus, rings of squid and morsels of whelk with pickled peppers, lemon and olive oil; signature "square noodle" pasta with light tomato-basil sauce with a dollop of creamy ricotta; and a big, moist and meaty chicken Vesuvio fragrant with garlic and paired with cooked potato wedges among other items. Entrees range from $12.95 to $35.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 8-31-07) -- L.Z.SANFRATELLO'S, 7 W. State St., Geneva. (630) 845-9999. A Chicago-area fixture since it opened in suburban Glenwood in 1969, the latest outpost features solid Italian fare, served family-style in a pleasant dining room. Highlights include: the Italian beef sandwich; homemade lasagna; spinach-and-cheese stuffed rotolo; and portobello ravioli among other items. Entrees range from $6.95 to $18.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-1-07) -- J.O.TESSA'S, 16 W. Jefferson Ave., Naperville. (630) 357-9200. The large (overwhelming even), tried-and-true menu takes familiar fare to delightful (albeit garlicky) heights. Highlights include the red-wine-soaked garlic bread finished with a fresh crackle of sea salt; rustic but upscale main courses including chicken farfalle with garlic-packed basil-pesto cream sauce clinging to piquant cheese-topped bowties; tender veal osso buco, which falls apart at the tap of a fork; apple rosemary-stuffed pork chops; and tomato fondue rigatoni finished with a cheesy, tomato-based cream sauce among other items. Entrees range from $8 to $42. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-17-07) -- J.O.JapaneseWILD TUNA, 3355 LaCrosse Lane, Naperville. (630) 420-8801. This self-described contemporary sushi spot features a large menu allowing for shareable dining. Highlights include the pricey (but worth it) hamachi tartare (a minced, fatty fish) served with wasabi-ponzu; sashimi with jalapenos and ponzu; many a la carte sushi selections; tasty specialty maki rolls including one with shrimp tempura, crab stick, avocado, cucumber, cream cheese and tobiko; salty miso soup and passable chicken teriyaki among other items. Sushi, maki and entrees range from $5.75 to $39. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday; noon to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 5-18-07) -- J.O.KoreanJUMONG RESTAURANT, Cambridge Commons, 23 E. Dundee Road, Buffalo Grove. (847) 353-3333. This restaurant serves up satisfying but unfussy, home-style dishes in a lunchroom setting. Highlights include the pajeon, a plate-sized crepe served with soy dipping sauce; kimchi (pickled vegetables); a zesty, bubbling hot stew chock-full of savory pork, peppery cabbage, kimchi, tofu, mushrooms, vegetables and noodles; bulgoki (tender beef with vegetables); and galbi (strips of short ribs) among other items. Entrees range from $7.95 to $13.50. Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 5 to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 4-13-07) -- L.Z.MexicanLA CASA DE ISAAC, 431 Temple Ave., Highland Park. (847) 433-5550. Chef Isaac Nava has his name over the door, but this friendly, intimate, moderately priced Mexican restaurant is entirely a family-run affair. Bright flavors characterize the food, the highlights of which include warm tortilla chips served with tangy red salsa; excellent ceviche made with tilapia marinated in lemon with tomato and avocado; a taco trio served in doubled tortillas featuring options of nicely grilled steak, slightly spicy chicken tinga and earthy beef tongue as well as grilled chicken and ground beef picadillo; the house specialty, a hefty portion of enchiladas packed with chicken in a sprightly green tomatillo sauce; and an intensely beefy cecina estilo Huitzuco, a thin-cut, salt-marinated steak served with grilled onions and jalapenos among other items. Entrees range from $4.75 to $16. Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday; one hour after sunset to midnight or later on Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 8-17-07) -- L.Z.TEPATULCO RESTAURANTE, 2558 N. Halsted St., Chicago. (773) 472-7419. Owner Geno Bahena returned to Chicago to open this upscale restaurant which features rich, flavorful moles, including a delectably bitter-edged and mildly spicy Oaxacan black mole served over meaty New Zealand baby lamb chops. Other highlights include salmon with a bright, zesty mole verde; a thick pork chop set in a sprightly, bright orange chileajo sauce; chicken enchiladas tucked into freshly made tortillas and blanketed with Telolopan red mole and a trio of plumb beef-and-pork meatballs accented with a touch of mint in a rice casserole among other items. Entrees range from $14.50 to $21. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 4-13-07) -- L.Z.Middle EasternSULTAN'S MARKET, 2521 N. Clark St., Chicago. (312) 638-9151. That this Lincoln Park sibling to its Wicker Park original does a bustling business comes as no surprise. The restaurant satisfies vegetarians and nonvegetarians with its fresh, Middle Eastern food. Highlights include stellar zatter bread (pita slathered with an aromatic, chewy blend of sesame seeds, thyme, sumac and oregano blended like pesto and baked atop); smooth and creamy hummus kissed with lemon; and excellent falafel sandwiches, especially the chicken shawarma featuring shards of rotisserie chicken tucked into a sliced, hummus-lined pita and topped with red onions, tomatoes and fresh Jerusalem salad. Entrees range from $3 to $7. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 10 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 6-22-07) -- J.O.MoroccanALHAMBRA PALACE, 1240 W. Randolph St., Chicago. (312) 666-9555. Spanning more than 30,000 square feet and with seating for more than 1,000, calling the lavish music venue/banquet facility/restaurant-lounge Alhambra Palace "over the top" is an understatement. The menu includes classics like moist, flavorful falafel served with punchy tahini sauce; super fresh Lebanese salad; mezza platters featuring a sampling of the first course dishes, which are recommended above some of the disappointing entrees. More enjoyable was the kefta kebabs made of highly seasoned ground lamb and served with tomatoes, onions, peppers and rice; braised duck leg paired with pomegranate, pistachios and roasted root vegetable puree; and cumin-rubbed salmon among other items. Entrees range from $17 to $32. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Saturday; dinner 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday to Friday; 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards. (Reviewed 8-31-07) -- J.O.SpanishAROMA, 3907 W. Algonquin Road, Algonquin. (847) 658-5656. Every dish delights at this pleasantly surprising tapas restaurant. Highlights include: brothy garlic soup; sauteed shrimp in a white wine sauce with cayenne pepper and garlic; artichokes and ham in a chunky tomato sauce with whispers of serrano; chorizo (smoked and seasoned pork sausage with dried chiles); paella and salmon in a citrus garlic sauce among other items. Tapas range from $3.50 to $8.95; entrees range from $9.95 to $16.95. Hours: 3 to 8 p.m. Sunday; 3 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 3 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts major credit cards. (Reviewed 4-27-07) -- D.P.AZUCAR! 2647 N. Kedzie Ave., Chicago. (773) 486-6464. This nominally Spanish Logan Square tapas restaurant (the name is Spanish for sugar) doesn't go much for Old World authenticity. But the ambience is hip, and the food is good. Highlights include: crispy-fried potato chunks with orange-colored paprika aioli and a side of spicy pepper sauce for dipping; mashed and fried plantains topped with a spiced, garlic-laced beef mixture; tender, beefy meatballs flavored with sweet spices; grilled pork tenderloin rubbed in cumin and served with roasted cherries and pistachio kernels; and an uncomplicated but good paella topped with jumbo shrimp and studded with sausage among other items. Tapas range from $3 to $14. Hours: 4:30 p.m. to midnight Sunday, Wednesday and Thursdays; 4:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, no reservations. (Reviewed 6-29-07) -- L.Z.ThaiKS SEAFOOD, Chinatown Square Mall, 2163 S. China Place, Chicago. (312) 842-1238. If you're undaunted by authentic Taiwanese cuisine (lighter and richer than more common Cantonese-American fare), this restaurant which also features Szechwan, Hunan and Mandarin dishes, is worth the trip. That said, some of the dishes are challenging. Highlights include the smoked soybean wrap made up of thin layers of lightly smoked tofu rolled around a filling of saut#233;ed chopped mushrooms served chilled; steamed buns with roast pork, peanuts and pickles; tender chicken braised in an intensely fragrant sauce of wine, soy sauce and sesame oil and sea bass with a slightly gritty, pleasantly acrid dried soybean sauce. Entrees range from $6.95 to $22.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 6-8-07) -- L.Z.UzbekistaniCHAIHANNA, 19 E. Dundee Road (Cambridge Commons shopping center), Buffalo Grove. (847) 215-5044. The area's only Uzbekistani eatery, this small, charmingly decorated, pleasantly exotic restaurant serves up savory but not highly spiced regional cuisine. Highlights include the tasty salmon rolls; "spicy" (meaning well-seasoned, not hot) beets; samsa (lovely, little baked meat pies with puffy dough crust and cumin-laced filling); beefy shurpa soup (with morsels of meat and cubed vegetables seasoned with cilantro); five kinds of moist and flavorful kebabs; the savory, palav, an Uzbekistani specialty combining cubes of braised beef with rice cooked in broth; and chicken tabaka, a Georgian-influenced dish consisting of juicy, garlicky herbed chicken on the bone among other items. Entrees range from $4.99 to $12.99. Hours: Noon to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 1 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 1 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Accepts major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 5-25-07) -- L.Z.VietnameseVIET BISTRO, 1344 W. Devon Ave., Chicago. (773) 465-5720. This sleek, modern restaurant and its dressy lounge features a streamlined menu featuring understated, delicately flavored and beautifully presented food. Highlights include nem (an appetizer featuring seasoned pork and chicken meatballs served with dipping sauces; lightly battered vegetable tempura; fried chicken egg rolls; stir-fry of tender sliced baby squid, shrimp and scallops mixed with bell peppers, straw mushrooms, onions, baby bok choy and enhanced with a seasoned broth and stir-fried lemongrass chicken served with sliced jalapenos among other items. Entrees range from $18 to $20. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts most major credit cards, reservations. (Reviewed 4-27-07) -- L.Z.