The Simplest Potato and Leek Braise

The Simplest Potato and Leek Braise
3 medium or 2 large leeks (about 1 1/2 pound trimmed of their leathery dark green tops)1 1/2 pounds yellow-flesh potatoes, such as Yukon Gold1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper1 1/4 cups chicken stock, homemade or store-bought, heated to near boiling
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into four pieces 1/4 - 1/3 cup heavy creamHeat the oven to 325 degrees.Trimming and washing the leeks: Trim the root ends and leathery green top parts from the leeks. You want only the whites and tender pale green parts. Slice the trimmed leeks lengthwise in half and then again into quarters. Chop into 3/4-inch pieces. Fill a large bowl with cold water and put the leeks in it. Swish the leeks around, then lift them from the water, leaving any sand and grit behind, and drain in a colander. Pour out the water, rinse the bowl, and repeat. This second rinse ensures that you won't ruin the dish with gritty leeks. Drain again in the colander.Peeling and chopping the potatoes: Peel the potatoes and cut them into 3/4-inch chunks.The braise: Place the leeks (it's fine if they are still wet) and potatoes in a buttered, shallow baking dish or gratin dish (a 10-by-14-inch oval works nicely). Add the thyme and nutmeg, and season generously with salt and pepper. (Potatoes tend to need a lot of salt, so don't be timid.) Toss with a rubber spatula to distribute the seasonings evenly, and spread the potatoes out in one layer. Pour over the hot stock. Dot the top with the butter. Cover tightly with heavy-duty foil and slide onto a rack in the middle of the oven. Braise, without disturbing, until the potatoes and leeks are almost tender, about 45 minutes.Remove the foil, gently stir the potatoes and leeks with a rubber spatula, and check the amount of liquid left in the pan. If there is barely any left, cover again with the foil. If the liquid comes halfway up the sides of the dish - or more, leave the foil off. (The difference in the amount of liquid depends on the season; fall potatoes tend to absorb more liquid, while fresher spring and summer potatoes absorb less.) Continue to braise until the potatoes and leeks are completely tender, another 20 to 25 minutes. Check by piercing a potato and a piece of leek with the tip of a sharp knife.Browning the top: Remove the dish from the oven, and increase the oven temperature to 425 degrees. If you haven't already, remove the foil from the dish. Give the potatoes and leeks a stir, and pour the cream over all. Return the dish to the oven, uncovered, and bake until the top is browned and bubbly and the cream is mostly absorbed, another 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest 5 to 10 minutes, and serve directly from the baking dish.Serves six.Nutrition values per serving: 236 calories, 9 g fat, 37 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 5 g protein, 25 mg cholesterol, 242 mg sodium."All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (2004 Norton, $35)