Cookout Burger and Hot Dog Buns

The directions are written for a stand mixer fitted with a dough-hook attachment, but this dough can be stirred and kneaded all by hand. A kitchen scale is handy for portioning the dough, and an instant-read thermometer is useful for checking the doneness of buns.

For the sponge

3¾ teaspoons instant dry yeast (see note)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon flour

1¼ cups warm water (about 110 degrees)

For the dough

5¼ cups (630 grams) flour, plus more as needed

2 large eggs, 1 whole and 1 separated into yolk and white (lightly beat the whole egg with the 1 yolk; reserve the remaining white for brushing)

¼ cup (85 grams) honey

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature

About 2 teaspoons (total) toasted sesame seeds, poppy seeds, and/or Everything Spice mix (optional)

For the sponge: Rinse the bowl of a stand mixer with warm water (to warm it up). Add the yeast, sugar, flour and the 1¼ cups of warm water; stir gently and cover with plastic wrap. Let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes; it should bubble and foam. If there is no visible reaction, dispose of the sponge and start again with fresh yeast.

For the dough: Grease a large bowl with cooking oil spray or by brushing its interior with vegetable oil. Add the flour, the beaten egg yolks and white, honey and salt to the yeasty sponge. Use the dough-hook attachment; knead on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth. Add the butter pieces and continue to knead for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the texture becomes bouncy, silky and soft and the butter is all incorporated.

Scoop out the dough, give it four or five kneads on the counter, and then tip it into the greased bowl, turning the dough to coat it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and move it to a warm, draft-free spot to rest for 1 hour, or until the dough has doubled in bulk.

Alternatively, the dough may be covered and refrigerated overnight and brought back to room temperature for 30 minutes before proceeding with the recipe. The dough needs to rise twice; first, for 1 hour, or it can be made a day in advance and held in the refrigerator, where it will rise slowly. The second time, the shaped buns need to rise for 45 minutes.

To make 12 burger buns, line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly flour the counter and tip the dough out of the bowl onto the counter. Gently deflate the dough.

Divide the dough into 12 equal portions (they will weigh about 95 grams each). Flatten each portion firmly, deflating the dough further, forming a disk that is 2½ to 3 inches in diameter. Gather the edges of the disk and pinch them together at the center to form a ball, then place the ball seam side down on the counter. Use the palm of your hand on the top to lightly roll the dough ball around, forming a tight exterior. Check the bottom of the bun to make sure the seam is tight, pinching it again if there is a gap, and place it seam side down on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough. Each baking sheet will hold 6 burger buns.

Once the balls have been formed, firmly press down on each one to flatten it into a bun shape about 4 inches in diameter. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let them rise for no more than 45 minutes. Do not allow them to rise beyond this time, or they will overproof.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven to accommodate two baking sheets, as needed.

Brush the surface of each ball with the reserved beaten egg white. Sprinkle sesame seeds, poppy seeds or Everything Spice mix over some or all of them, if using. Transfer the baking sheets to the oven; bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until quite deeply browned, rotating the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of a bun should register 190 degrees.

Cool the buns on a wire rack. Slice before filling, toasting or grilling.

To make 12 hot dog buns: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Lightly flour the counter and tip the dough out of the bowl, gently deflating it. Divide the dough into 12 equal portions (95 grams each). Flatten and deflate each portion into a rectangle about 5 by 4 inches. Starting at a 5-inch edge, tightly roll the dough into a cigar shape. About 1 inch from the far edge, tuck in the sides, as if you were wrapping a package. Pinch the edges, ends and seams together forcefully, then roll the cigar shape under two palms to form an even cylinder, trying not to create ends that are too pointed.

Check the seams, pinching them tightly again, as needed, and place the bun, seam side down on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough, forming two rows each with 6 buns evenly spaced across the width of the baking sheet. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let them rise for another 45 minutes. They will almost touch each other once they've risen and will touch as they bake.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Brush the surface of the buns with the reserved egg white. Sprinkle sesame seeds, poppy seeds or Everything Spice mix over some or all of them, if using. Transfer to the oven and bake (middle rack) for 20 to 25 minutes, until quite deeply browned, rotating the sheet from front to back halfway through. An instant-read thermometer inserted from the side into the center of a bun should register 190 degrees.

Cool the buns on a wire rack. Slice before filling, toasting or grilling.

Makes 12 buns

Nutrition | Per serving: 260 calories, 7 g protein, 49 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Note: SAF-Instant yeast is available at some gourmet kitchen stores, at some Whole Foods Markets and through various online purveyors.

The buns are best when freshly made, but they can keep for a day or two, in a container at room temperature. Baked buns may be wrapped individually and frozen for up to 1 month; defrost in the refrigerator overnight and use promptly.

From cookbook author Cathy Barrow