Amen to elegance: Former chapel site among Ivy's many blessings

Posted October 27, 2009 11:00 pm

By Deborah Pankey

Chef Brian Goewey puts the finishing touches on his pork chop Milan at Ivy Restaurant in Wheaton. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

It seems rather appropriate that a beautiful space that once housed a chapel has been reborn once again as Ivy Restaurant.

This is not the first incarnation of a restaurant at the sacred spot. With chef Brian Goewey in the kitchen creating modern American cuisine and an attentive waitstaff in the dining room, however, Ivy could climb to the pinnacle of upscale casual dining in the suburbs.

Co-owners Dick and Carol O'Gorman opened Ivy in March, the name inspired by the verdant vines adorning the 1920s building. The couple previously had a stake in FoxFire in Geneva and cultivated Ivy with general manager Jason Sandquist and partners Mark and Vicki Nelson.

Dick O'Gorman is the tall gray-haired fellow whose warm smile greeted my friend and me as we walked in on a Saturday evening, and he's the gent who works the dining room as the evening progresses. The dining room, still adorned with stunning stained glass and hand-carved wood work, exudes elegance, yet the atmosphere is far from snooty.

The menu, featuring steaks, chops and seafood, has been designed to welcome families as well as those dining without younger ones. Steakhouse faves and gourmet fare are served alongside familiar salads and comforting dishes.

We certainly found much to like on the menu, starting with the warm almond-crusted Brie. This appetizer could have easily fallen into the been-there, done-that category, but instead the apricots and toasted bread - and the champagne cocktails we sipped with it - made for a spectacular start to the meal.

Sadly, but understandably, this starter has been pulled from the menu to make way for more autumnal fare like crab cakes.

The steaks, chops, seafood and pasta entrees all come with the chef's soup of the day or a side salad (wedge, Caesar or mixed greens with a delightfully subtle vinaigrette). Fall soups will feature heavier bisques and chowders so we'll have to count the days until next summer when we can enjoy lighter, brothier soups.

Those wanting to pass on big plates of protein, can have a dinner-size salad. The grilled salmon with feta, asparagus and cherry tomatoes sounds especially appetizing, and the fall menu will feature tuna mingling with daikon, carrots, onions and crispy wontons.

I'm not a coffee drinker, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try chef Goewey's Kona-rubbed filet. The waitress promised a subtly flavored dish, and had I been used to coffee, especially heartier roasts like Kona, I probably would have agreed. However it was too bold for my Starbuck's-shy palate. On her side, the Erath Pinot Noir she suggested stood up to the steak and was soft enough to not overpower the accompanying whipped potatoes and sauteed vegetables. Perhaps next time I'll try the hoisin-glazed pork chops, the house specialty lamb chops topped with Gorgonzola or even the house linguine with peppers, grilled chicken and spicy cream sauce.

Chef Goewey features fish specials allowing the market to determine his seafood option and pairing it with silky sauces. We can vouch for his Asian preparation that paired a balanced sweet marinade with pan-seared halibut.

There's nothing groundbreaking on the dessert menu, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The carrot cake was a brilliant adaptation and I appreciated that the frosting was not cloyingly sweet. The chocolate lava cake boasted good flavor, but could have been warmer to allow the "lava" to flow more freely.

As I alluded to earlier, our service was friendly and well-paced. Ivy has beautiful spaces available for private parties (a company holiday dinner, perhaps?), but you'll have to wait until next year to enjoy the quaint outdoor patio.

Stained glass windows and dramatic architecture remain from Ivy's early days as a chapel. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Ivy general manager Jason Sandquist says the Gorgonzola lamb chops have become a dinner favorite at the downtown Wheaton restaurant. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

New Zealand lamb chops with Gorgonzola cheese have become a favorite with diners at Ivy Restaurant in Wheaton. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Chinoy ahi tuna salad is one of the elegant options at Ivy Restaurant in Wheaton. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Ivy 120 N. Hale St. Wheaton, (630) 665-2489, <a href="http://ivyofwheaton.com" target="new">ivyofwheaton.com</a> Cuisine: Contemporary American steaks, chops and seafood Setting: Comfortably elegant dining in historic chapel Entrees: $15 to $39 Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 a.m. Sunday Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards

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