Why you should be baking with rye flour
Looking for a way to take your baking to the next level? Try rye flour, a sneaky way to add complex flavors, a tender crumb and a little nutrition, especially in sweet baked goods.
Despite being an underdog — U.S. wheat production outnumbers rye 100 to 1 — the grain has its own dedicated hype people.
“The buzzword for 2026 is fiber,” says Jeff Zimmerman, who co-owns Hayden Flour Mills in Gilbert, Arizona, with his daughter, Emma Zimmerman. Rye flour — especially whole grain — has more fiber than wheat. It’s also beneficial from a climate perspective.
“Rye is very easy to grow, much easier to grow organically. It takes a lot less out of the soil,” says Dawn Woodward, baker and founder of Evelyn’s Wholegrain Bakery in Toronto.
Plus, it’s fun to experiment with different ingredients and flavors.
If your supermarket, grocery store or natural food market has rye flour, it’s probably from King Arthur Baking, Bob’s Red Mill or Arrowhead Mills. (Of the three, King Arthur Baking offers the most varieties.) Each is a great option to get started. But you’ll unlock even more flavor by sourcing from a local or regional mill. As with most agricultural products, when you buy flour locally or regionally, you’re more likely to get a fresher, more flavorful ingredient than its mass-produced analog.
Thankfully, a rise in regional grains means it’s easier to find regional flour at locally owned grocery stores and co-ops, bakeries using local grains and the mills themselves, many of which also sell online. Check baker and author Andrew Janjigian’s list of millers across North America to get started, or ask your friendly neighborhood baker about their sources.
“You’ve got all these grain heads out there who are just so enthusiastic about varieties that we have not been exposed to for so long,” says Erica Gagne Glaze, baker and founder of the Pig and the Plow bakery in Fort Collins, Colorado. “They’re really expanding the culinary options.”
Wherever you may be on your baking journey, it’s time to try rye, and not just in bread. Here’s how to put it to good use.
Pick the right rye flour
In recipes, you’ll probably encounter “light,” “medium,” or “dark” rye flour. Generally, the lighter the shade, the more it’s been sifted to remove the bran and germ. Light (also called white) rye flour lends minimal rye flavor. Use it when you want a suggestion of rye. Medium includes some of the bran and germ, translating to a bit more flavor and nutrition. It’s a good starter rye, if you prefer to ease into new flours. For maximum impact, look for dark or whole rye.
“That means it’s wholemeal, and just like wheat, all the flavor is in the bran, so why would you remove that?” says Woodward, whose cookbook, “Flour is Flavour,” teaches how to bake bread, cookies, cakes and more with whole-grain flours.
If sourcing from local mills, you’ll see more named varieties. No matter the type, growing conditions and location — the terroir — will impact the flavor, another reason diving into the world of grains is so rewarding. At her bakery, Gagne Glaze sources Colorado-grown Ryman, Elbon and Wrens Abruzzi from Moxie Bread Co. in Boulder.
Others include Danko, developed in Poland, and Hazlet from Canada. Sangaste, an Estonian rye, stands out for its aroma, baking quality and flavor. When milled, it smells like honey. Once baked, there’s an “incredible grassy sweetness to it,” says Woodward.
Sangaste is also the variety prized by Jeff Zimmerman of Hayden Flour Mills. In a quest that began to seem quixotic, Zimmerman finally found his ideal Sangaste rye during a recent sourcing trip to Finland, and now sells it as flour and whole berries.
Understand how rye works in baking
Though dark, dense rye bread is delicious, rye flour does not inherently create denseness in other baked goods. “You don’t have to worry about it acting heavy,” says Woodward. “Rye really does behave more like a cake or pastry flour.”
That’s because rye’s composition is different from wheat. In baked goods made with wheat flour, the protein known as gluten provides strength and structure. To achieve an open-crumb loaf of bread, you need gluten’s strength to sustain the lift provided by yeast or natural leavening. While rye contains proteins called secalins, it does not contain glutenin, one of the components of gluten that lends strength and elasticity. (Because some of rye’s proteins are similar to gluten, rye can still be problematic for those with celiac disease.) Muffins, scones, cookies and brownies leavened with baking powder or soda don’t need the same level of structure gluten provides in bread. Bake them with rye flour and they’ll be light and tender, though they might have a little more chew than something made with all-purpose flour, especially if you’re using whole-grain rye.
So where do you begin when opting for rye instead of white flour? Start with a recipe that calls specifically for rye flour. Get to know how it looks, feels and acts. Then, suggests Woodward, take something as easy as chocolate chip cookies and swap all-purpose for rye flour, using the same weight of flour called for originally. Use a digital scale rather than measuring by volume, because 1 cup of rye flour does not weigh the same as 1 cup of all-purpose, and that weight will vary depending on whether it’s light, medium or dark rye flour. Too much or too little flour can lead to baking failures. A scale helps prevent that.
Rye flour can be more “thirsty” and require a bit more liquid than you may be used to, which is why it’s good to bake something you’re familiar with so you can lean on your intuition. It’s also helpful to let doughs and batters rest to help the flour fully hydrate, which, as an added bonus, will further develop flavors. You’ll find that strategy in these Rye Chocolate Chip Cookies, which include bread flour as well.
Learn how to pair rye with other flavors
Though rye pairs beautifully with caraway in bread, rye itself tastes nothing like the spice. Rye can lend notes of vanilla, brown butter, caramel and cocoa. It adds instant depth to cookies, brownies, scones and any baked good you’re craving. It pairs well with warming spices, such as cinnamon and ginger. Rye and chocolate make an irresistible duo. Tangy spring rhubarb, juicy summer plums and tart autumn apples complement it especially well.
Really, though, we should be thinking of rye as an ingredient that goes with everything. “It’s just something fun and different to play with,” says Woodward. “Like haven’t people gotten tired of white flour yet?”
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Rye Chocolate Chip Cookies
1⅓ cups (166 grams) whole or dark rye flour
Scant ¾ cup (90 grams) bread flour
¾ teaspoon fine salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
16 tablespoons (2 sticks/227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (55 grams) packed dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1½ tablespoons water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
5 ounces (140 grams) dark chocolate (70% cacao solids), chopped into smallish pieces of varying size*
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
In a small bowl, whisk together the rye and bread flours, fine salt, and baking soda until well combined.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and granulated and brown sugars, and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the egg, water and vanilla, and beat on medium until well combined, stopping the mixer and scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl, as needed. Add the flour mixture and mix on low just until combined. (Some white streaks are okay.) Add the chocolate and mix on low until evenly distributed. (There should be no white streaks left in the dough.)
Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper. Using a No. 30 disher or 1-tablespoon measuring spoon, portion the dough into approximately 2-tablespoon balls, each weighing about 1 ounce (30 grams), arranging them on the sheet pan as you work. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes, and up to 2 days, to firm up.
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper and place 6 dough balls on each, spacing them evenly apart. (The cookies spread a lot, which is why you need to leave plenty of room between them.) Transfer one sheet pan to the refrigerator or freezer while you bake the first batch.
Bake, one sheet at a time, for 13 to 15 minutes, or until the cookies are starting to crisp up around the edges and puff slightly in the center. Remove the sheet pan from the oven, then drop it twice on a heatproof counter or other surface to deflate and crinkle the cookies. Immediately, lightly sprinkle the cookies with a little flaky salt, crushing the flakes between your fingers as you go. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cookies cool completely on the pan, about 20 minutes, then transfer from the pan to the wire rack. (The chocolate will be soft and melty for a while.) Repeat with the remaining dough; if you are reusing a sheet pan from previous batches, allow it to cool completely first.
Servings: 24 (makes about 24 cookies)
* Notes: The most effective way to chop chocolate is with a large serrated knife, rather than a large chef’s knife, then use a bench scraper to transfer all the pieces, “dust” included, to a bowl. While you can make these cookies with chocolate chips, we recommend you take a few minutes to chop the chocolate yourself. You’ll get pieces of varying sizes, including chocolate shards and “dust” that will melt into the dough and ensure that each bite has some chocolate in it.
Make ahead: The dough balls need to chill in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 days before baking. (If refrigerating the dough balls for more than 20 minutes, cover with plastic wrap to keep the dough from drying out.) The dough balls can be frozen on a sheet pan until firm, and then transferred to a zip-top freezer bag and frozen for up to 2 months. Bake from frozen, adding about 2 minutes to the baking time.
Storage: Store in a loosely covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Where to buy: Rye flour can be found at well-stocked supermarkets, natural food stores and online.
Substitutions: For hand-chopped chocolate, use chocolate chips or chunks. For bread flour, use all-purpose flour with a higher protein content, such as King Arthur Baking brand. For dark brown sugar, use light brown sugar.
Nutritional facts per cookie: Calories: 199, Fat: 10 g, Saturated Fat: 6 g, Carbohydrates: 26 g, Sodium: 99 mg, Cholesterol: 27 mg, Protein: 2 g, Fiber: 1 g, Sugar: 17 g.
— Olga Massov