Elaine's Famous Dinner Rolls

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1¼

cup regular or reduced-fat milk

¼

cup lukewarm water (run the tap until the water feels just slightly warm)

2 packages (1/4 ounce each) regular (not rapid-rise) yeast (about 11/2 tablespoons)

4 cups all-purpose, unbleached flour (I use King Arthur brand)

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons sugar

Place the butter and the milk in a pot set over medium-high heat, and cook just until the butter is melted and bubbles appear around the edges of the milk. (This is called "scalding" the milk.) Set aside to cool while the yeast proofs. (If it's cold outside, I put it on the porch.)

Put the lukewarm water in a large bowl and sprinkle the yeast on top. Let it sit ("proof") for 5-10 minutes; the yeast should begin to bubble. (If it doesn't, the yeast is too old to use, and you have to start over with fresher yeast.)

After the yeast has bubbled, add the flour, milk-and-butter mixture, salt and sugar and mix well. Turn onto a floured work surface, and knead for a couple of minutes. Cover with a clean dish towel, set it in a warm place, and let it rise for 15 minutes.

Line a cookie sheet with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Divide the dough in half, then divide each half in half again, so you have four equal portions. Divide each portion into three equal parts, rolling each piece with your hand to make a ball. You will have 12 rolls. (If you want to make hamburger buns, divide the dough into six equal pieces and form each into a slightly flattened round. Add a few minutes to the baking time.)

Place on the prepared cookie sheet, and set aside in a warm place for 15 minutes. Bake 10-12 minutes, until golden. Serve warm. These rolls can be frozen for up to two months. Reheat gently (not in a microwave; they will get tough) before serving.

Makes 12 dinner rolls or 6 hamburger buns.

"Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family" by MariaLisa Calta (2005 Perigee)