Shrimp Tonnato

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 lemon, thickly sliced

4 bay leaves

1 tablespoon whole peppercorns

1½ pounds large shrimp (16-20 count per pound), shell on

Tonnato

2 cans solid light tuna in olive oil (6 ounces each)

¼ cup mayonnaise, good quality

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons capers, plus 2 dozen or so for garnish

Zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus additional zest for garnish

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Put 5 quarts of water into a large pot and add the salt, lemon, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Add the shrimp, stir, and cook for 4 minutes. Do not overcook, or your shrimp will be rubbery.

Drain the shrimp into a colander and run under cold water. Set aside to cool, then peel and devein the shrimp, remembering to leave the tail on. Refrigerate until ready to use, but remove from the refrigerator 1 hour prior to serving.

For the tonnato: Put the tuna in the bowl of a food processor. Add the lemon zest and juice, capers, mayonnaise, and olive oil and process until creamy. Stir in the pepper and place the tonnato in a decorative bowl alongside the shrimp.

To assemble: Butterfly the shrimp by running a knife along the outside curve of the shrimp from the head to the tail, making sure to slice almost (but not quite) all the way through. Arrange the shrimp on a platter so that the tail is standing up and place a dollop of tonnato on each one. Garnish with 1 caper and a pinch of lemon zest.

Makes 24 to 30 pieces.

Cook's note: The shrimp is best made the day of, but the tonnato can be made 2 days in advance. If you serve it directly from the refrigerator, the meat will be tight and not very flavorful. Take it out 1 hour before serving.

Nutrition values per piece: 90 calories, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 8 g protein, 45 mg cholesterol, 550 mg sodium.

"Talk With Your Mouth Full" by Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh

(2007 Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $27.50)