Gratin of Vidalia Onions

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided

4 large Vidalia onions, halved lengthwise, then each half sliced ¼-inch thick (about 4 pounds)

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¼ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

¼ teaspoon crumbled leaf thyme

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup half-and-half

½ cup chicken broth

¼ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Topping

1½ cups moderately coarse soft bread crumbs

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter a 2-quart gratin dish or shallow casserole and set aside.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat, add the onions, and saute for 10-12 minutes, stirring often, until soft. Transfer to the gratin dish.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the same skillet over moderate heat; blend in the flour, salt, pepper, thyme and nutmeg and cook, whisking constantly, for 1 minute.

In a 2-cup measure, combine the half-and-half and chicken broth, then slowly add to the skillet, whisking all the while. Continue whisking for 3-5 minutes or until thickened and smooth. Blend in the parmesan, taste for salt and pepper, and adjust as needed. Pour the sauce over the onions, spreading to the edge.

Quickly make the topping by tossing all ingredients together. Scatter evenly on top of the sauce and onions. Bake uncovered on the middle oven shelf for 20-25 minutes or until bubbling and tipped with brown. Serve at once.

Serves six to eight.

Nutrition values per serving: 270 calories, 14 g fat (9 g saturated), 31 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 7 g protein, 40 mg cholesterol, 330 mg sodium.

"A Love Affair with Southern Cooking" by Jean Anderson (2007 William Morrow, $32.50)